Jeff Clark Speaks Out

Over the past several years, it has been obvious that my vision and priorities are not in line with those of Mavericks Surf Ventures. I have had in the past, and continue to have, strong differences of opinion with the present CEO and Board about the direction, image and priorities of the company and the contest.

The press release issued by Mavericks Surf Ventures this week stating that I ‘stepped down’ and I am ‘passing the torch to the next generation’ is wrong. The reality is that I was ousted as Contest Director by the current CEO.

I must also note that, while the company’s news release states that this year’s contest will be held to celebrate ‘the 35th anniversary of Jeff Clark’s first session at the now world-famous break,’ the 35th anniversary is actually next season, in 2010-11. I will not allow the company to use my accomplishment as a marketing tactic.

Effective today, I have resigned from the Board of Directors of Mavericks Surf Ventures.

My vision for the Mavericks Surf Contest has been unwavering: it is about the family of big wave surfers, the spirit of the ocean, and this amazing wave. I never wanted that to be compromised for the sake of money or marketing opportunities. I think that focus is obvious to anyone who knows me or who has seen my priorities over the years.

Mavericks has been an integral part of my personal and professional life for more than 30 years, and I hope that it continues to be a part of both in the future.

I wake up looking at Mavericks, and I have watched and surfed those waves most of my life. I started the contest 10 years ago, and I can say one thing for sure: Mavericks is Mavericks. The waves will come – or not – when they will.

The one thing I would truly regret would be to see a committee deciding, based on sponsorship money and media opportunities, when the best day to run the contest would be, and have it turn into just another 10 foot swell with a lot of hype and not a lot of substance. Any true Mavericks surfer wants and deserves a real test of ability.

I wish everyone well, knowing that Mavericks will always take care of itself.

I wish I could say more at this time, but I have had limited time to absorb these changes and will have more to say about this situation as things become clearer.”

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We're with you, Jeff. Mahalo for your sense of family, tribe and integrity.

Jeff Clark: My Word

The Unknown O.C. Surfer

"In honor of the unknown O.C. surfer talent," by Corky Carroll, Orange County Register ( corkysurf@aol.com ).

Slater's Glass Slipper

Sam George looks at Kelly Slater's "Glass Slipper" ...

See also the other vids in the Surfline series "If These Boards Could Talk" and join the Surfing Heritage Foundation.

"Toll Road" Is Back!

They haven't given up on the really bad idea of the Toll Road that would ruin Trestles:

After route fails, agency still wants 241 extension - OCRegister.com

Women Greats - Late 1980s

Stumbled upon this really neat video of the great women surfers of the late 1980s:



The write-up of the video goes like this:

"This independent documentary film expands the surf film genre and features some of the most unique and visually stunning moments in women's sports cinematography. The film was shot on location in Tavarua, Fiji, a remote 30-acre island in the South Pacific that is surrounded by one of the world's best ocean reef breaks.

"Against this backdrop, charging ten-foot waves that pound the coral reef beneath, or inside the hollow of a perfectly-shaped "tube" - Surfer Girl captures images of women athletes rarely seen on television or in film. The women speak of their passion for the ocean, for surfing, and for following their dreams, despite the odds against them. Surfer Girl features Americans Frieda Zamba and Debbie Beacham, and Australian's Wendy Botha, Pam Burridge and Jodie Cooper... Five women. Ten world titles. Personal and compelling stories."

Buzzy Trent

In the latest issue of Ocean Mag, there's a piece on Buzzy Trent, written by his daughter Anna Trent Moore, complete with photographs from the family archives.

Also, part two of the Swamis Surfing Association article is ready for reading.

Dick Baker (1946-2009)

In a traditional Hawaiian tribute, hundreds of surfers formed a circle offshore at Doheny State Beach on May 31, 2009 to say goodbye to Dick Baker, a mentor and friend to many in the surfing industry...

LEGENDARY SURFERS on Facebook

In addition to the social network we have here (see sidebar, lower section), a Facebook contingent has begun. If you are on FB, please join with us at:

LEGENDARY SURFERS on Facebook

"The Women & The Waves"

See the video trailer. The following is from the website:

"The Women and the Waves” was conceived out of Executive Producer, Heather Hudson’s passion for surfing, first… and being a female, second. Having surfed for three decades, Heather came to the conclusion that being a surfer, and being a female surfer has been quite a “trip”!

A few years back, filmmaker and “The Women and the Waves” co-producer, Peck Euwer asked Heather to be one of five subjects in his 2005 documentary, “The Craving”. She accepted. The focus of “The Craving” was surf addiction… how that works, what goes on in their heads. “The Craving” was raw, real life. It premiered at the Santa Barbara International Film Festival to a packed house at the Arlington Theater in 2006. Featuring five surfers, different ages, different backgrounds and all sharing the same drive to surf often!

After seeing it, Heather was completely and absolutely inspired! It occurred to her that she was the only woman featured in the film and had a strong desire to tell more of the surf story from the feminine perspective, a story that has always been there, but often overlooked or minimized in the surfing world. She approached Peck while surfing on a rarely uncrowded and perfect day. "I have your next surf film," she said, pointing to her head. "It's right here." He smiled knowingly. (She had no idea what she was getting herself into!) – “Okay, let’s talk”, he replied. At that moment, the yet untitled documentary “The Women and the Waves” was born.



Excerpt from The Press Release:

WOMEN SURFERS MAKE WAVES IN NEW DOCUMENTARY

The Women and the Waves
Celebrates the Female Surfing Experience Through the Decades

(SANTA BARBARA, CA — January, 2009) “I never wanted to surf like a girl,” smiles 64-year-old Linda Benson, “But now it’s different…they’re really good!” For women who have paddled head-first into a once male dominated sport, surfing is not only a daily passion, but a way of life. Battling fierce tides and stereotypes, female surfers from every decade are connected by a common thread: they are “The Women in the Waves.”

... Through the collaborative efforts of Heather Hudson (Graciegirl LLC) and Peck Euwer (Swell Pictures Inc.), the film production documents the female surfing experience through the lives of ten women from age 17 to 64.

From the swells of Mexico to Hawaii’s temperate waters and the enticing California coastline, audiences will gain insight into what it’s like to “Surf like a girl!” Shot in High Definition, The Women and the Waves pays tribute to pioneers who paved the way and recognition to the everyday surfers that keep the dream alive.

Featuring 10 extraordinary women, the 48 minute film introduces five-time Women’s World Champion, Linda Benson, who began riding waves at age 11 in 1955, and 50-year-old Zeuf, a longboarding Santa Cruz local and self professed “oceanaholic”, who despite a valiant battle with cancer, still manages to ride the waves she loves.

Of the younger generations, viewers meet Rachel Harris, 17, as she shreds in-between high school classes and weighs the options of going to college or pursuing a pro career. Chat with 22-year-old Aussie waterwoman, Shakira Westdorp and watch in awe as she drops into bombs at Waimea Bay. Integrating interviews with old and new surfing footage, The Women and the Waves allows surfers and non-surfers alike to savor surfing from the feminine perspective while throwing in comments from the guys for good measure.

Through the decades, women have carved a place in today’s surfing world and found a place of their own. “I remember going for weeks without seeing another girl in the water,” remarks executive producer Heather Hudson, who started in 1978. “A few years ago while surfing my favorite break, I noticed that the women out numbered the men in the line-up. If someone told me 30 years ago that this would be true, I’d have said they were crazy!”

Since modern surfing stormed the West Coast in the 1950s, the waves have not changed, but the people who ride them have. Through striking visuals and inspiring interviews The Women and the Waves reveals what surfing truly is to female riders of all ages —a sport and a lifestyle. “The film was conceived out of my passion for surfing, first …and being a female, second.” explains Hudson, “Being a surfer has been quite a trip!”

Maurice Cole

"Though he’s shaped boards for a number of world champs, Maurice Cole’s more than a shaper —- he’s been an innovator, pioneer, designer, madman, charger, and entrepreneur, among other things. He founded BASE Surfboards, the all-star shaping co-op in Australia, and then suddenly exited. Since then, he and mate Ross Clarke-Jones have been towing large surf and working on Maurice’s next design advancements.

"He’s opinionated, controversial, and tack sharp. This is his first U.S. interview in a long while. Enjoy, discuss, and wish him the best on his fight..." Please go to Casey Koteen's interview of Maurice at:

Maurice Cole Emerges | Transworld Surf