Legendary Surfers

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LS Chapters Added First Half 2021

In the first half of 2021, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added, edited or offered free include:

Dora: http://www.legendarysurfers.com/2014/12/dora.html

Da Bull: Greg Noll: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/01/da-bull-greg-noll.html

Surfing Year 1962: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/02/surfing-year-1962.html

Ricky Grigg (1937-2014): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/03/ricky-grigg-1937-2014.html

Surfing Year 1963: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/04/surfing-year-1963.html

Dewey Weber (1938-1993): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/05/dewey-weber-1938-1993.html

LS Chapters Added Later in 2020

In the last half of 2020, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added, edited or offered free include:

Surfing Year 1956: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/05/surfing-year-1956.html

Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz (1921-2014): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/06/dorian-doc-paskowitz-1921-2014.html

Surfing Year 1958: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/07/surfing-year-1958.html

From Wood to Foam: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/07/from-wood-to-foam.html

The Malibu Board: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/08/the-malibu-board.html

Surfing Year 1959: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/08/surfing-year-1959.html

Phil Edwards: The Early Years: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/09/phil-edwards-early-years.html

Surfing Decade: The 1910's: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/09/surfing-decade-1910s.html

Surfing Year 1960: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/10/surfing-year-1960.html

Surfing Decade: The 1920's: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/10/surfing-decade-1920s.html

Gene "Tarzan" Smith (1911-1986): http://www.legendarysurfers.com/2014/12/tarzan.html

Surfing Year 1961: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/12/surfing-year-1961.html

The Malibu Board

Now, completely free in ebook format for reading and/or downloading:


Chapters Added in Early 2020

In the first half of 2020, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters added -- both new, edited and freed from behind a pay wall -- include:

Bud Browne (1912-2008)https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/01/bud-browne-1912-2008.html

Surfing Year 1955https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/02/surfing-year-1955.html

Malibu: Tomol to Tubesteakhttps://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/04/malibu-tomol-to-tubesteak.html

Surfing Year 1956https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/05/surfing-year-1956.html

Surfing's Revival (1900-1915)https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2019/10/surfings-revival-1900-1915.html

Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culturehttps://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2018/05/traditional-hawaiian-surf-culture.html

Traditional Hawaiian Surfboardshttps://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2018/05/traditional-hawaiian-surfboards.html

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Buzzy Trent (1929-2006)

Aloha and welcome to this chapter of Legendary Surfers (Volume 5, Chapter 11) on legendary surfer Buzzy Trent.

Buzzy Trent; photo by Leroy Grannis 


WW II Malibu & Post Era Surfing with Simmons
To & Fro the Beach
Tijuana Sloughs, Christmas Time, December 1949
Sunset Cliffs, January 1951
Before The Call of The Islands
Makaha, 1952
Makaha, 1953
Bob Simmons on The North Shore
The Photo Seen ‘Round The World
Talk Story
Makaha & The North Shore, 1954
Quonset Hut Life
Greg Noll & The Hermosa Guys, 1954
Phil Edwards on The North Shore, 1955
All Out Attack on The North Shore, 1955
Laniakea, November 1955
Outside Reefs
Coast Haoles Takeover The North Shore
Waimea Broke Open, November 1957
Later Years

“You don’t go hunting elephant with a BB gun. If you’re going to hunt big waves, take a big gun.” 1

“Life’s a supermarket, Kurnz. Put anything you want in the shopping cart, but you have to deal with the checker on the way out the door.” 2

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Surfing Year 1954

Aloha and welcome to the LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on surfing as it was in 1954.

Disclaimer: I've tried my best to pin-point surfing events and stories that took place in 1954, but realize there may be some inconsistencies in the chronology.

Rick, Mike, Sonny and Bing. Photo by Velzy.


George Downing
Phil Edwards
Mike Doyle
Miki and Mickey
The Death of Simmons
Greg Noll Hits the North Shore
Makaha Quonset Huts
Haole in Waipahu High
Pau Malu = Sunset Beach
Henry “Hanalei” Preece
The Hike Around Kaena Point
Makaha International Surfing Championships
Last Days of the Hot Curl

To read the chapter on 1954, please go here:



Surfing's Revival (1900-1915)


Long part of Volume 1 of LEGENDARY SURFERS, Surfing's Revival is back in the collection as a free, stand-alone chapter in PDF format. To read or download, please go to:


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Dale Velzy (1927-2005)

Aloha and Welcome to this LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on legendary surfer and shaper Dale Velzy.

After several years lapse, this chapter -- written in 2004, just before Velzy's passing -- is once again posted for public viewing, reading and downloading.


Malcolm Gault-Williams
September 2019

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Reader and Viewer Involvement in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection takes place at our Facebook Goup. Click on the icon below to go there:

Famous. Well known. Surfing Royalty. Pioneers. Innovators. Influential Shapers. Surf journalists. Surf photographers & filmmakers. Established surf artists. Past and Current surf pros. Outstanding Soul Surfers. Local Legends. Up and Coming Legends in the Making.
Is it Legendary or historical
Relevant to classic surf culture
Photos and videos must be surf-related.
Anything not related to surfing will be removed.
Photos must contain Surfer ID and photographer credit.
If photographer is unknown, type “photographer unknown”.
WAVE PHOTOS must include photographer credit.
 PLEASE CORRECT YOUR POST CAPTIONS TO INCLUDE PROPER CREDIT if an LS member identifies the photographer or provides corrected Surfer ID in the comments section of your post.
Please use an album for multiple photos.
All album photos must be surfing related.
 VIDEOS must include source of ID
Please post generic beach scenes elsewhere.
Please post skateboarding and car/motorcycle photos elsewhere
Respect the locals. --> Do not name secret spots or lesser known spots.
Please limit your posts to 8 or so in a 24 hour period.
Please refrain from sharing/recycling other members’ posts.
Limited exceptions only. Must be approved by Admin.
Environmental posts must be approved by Admin.
No Politics.
Negative & derogatory comments will be deleted, and may result in removal from the group.
Let’s keep the Aloha Spirit by doing all of the above! 🤙

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Tom Blake (1902-1994)

Aloha and Welcome. My Tom Blake chapter is one of the longest chapters in my collection and is based on the definitive Blake biography Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, which I co-wrote with Blake biographer and friend Gary Lynch, published in 2001.

To read, please click on the image below:


Blake Beginnings
Malibu First Ridden with Sam Reid, 1926
Hollow Board Evolution, 1926-29
  Drilled-Holes, 1926-29
  Pacific Coast Surfriding Championships, 1928
  Carved Chambered Hollows, 1929
Surf Photography, 1929
Ala Wai Canal Contests, 1929-1931
Further Board Developments
Surfer Lifestyle Pioneer
Longest Rides, 1930 & 1936
Early 1930s Innovations
  The Sailboard, 1931-32
  Collapsible Surfboard, 1932
  The Leash
Santa Monica Guarding, 1932-33
Catalina Crossing, 1932
Production Boards
USA East Coast
  Miami, 1933-34
  Nassau, Bahamas, 1934
  Long Island, New York, 1934
The Skeg & Other Innovations
Palos Verdes & Miami 1939-41
World War II and After
Early 1950s
Surfing’s End, 1955
  “Voice of the Wave,” 1968
Last Years

“When I was a young man, I fell from social grace, or rather was pushed into deep water. Thereafter I became a rebel of the society that had so taken advantage of a well meaning youth. I soon found that even deep water supports a rebel, if he has the will and ability to swim, regardless of race, color or creed. At times I found the water good, better than the land I was cut off from; the blessings of nature, superior and more honest and productive to happiness than the striving to conform: was thus I came to know my god.”

-- Tom Blake, July 16, 1968

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