New and Edited Chapters

New and edited older chapters of the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection continue to be posted, although not in the volume of days gone by. The best menu to view these and the full collection is located at: 

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/

LS Chapters Added 2nd Half 2022

In the second half of 2022, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added or re-issued include:

Austronesians: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/06/polynesian-beginnings

Austronesian Voyages: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/07/austronesian-voyages.html

The Long Voyages: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/07/the-long-voyages.html

Peter Cole (1930-2022): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/07/peter-cole-1930-2022.html

He'e Nalu: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/07/hee-nalu.html

Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culture: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/08/traditional-hawaiian-surf-culture.html

Traditional Hawaiian Spots and Breaks: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/08/traditional-hawaiian-spots-breaks.html

Kapu and Classes: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/08/kapu-and-class.html

Traditional Hawaiian Life: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/08/traditional-hawaiian-life.html

Wahines and Surf Speak: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/09/wahines-surfspeak.html

Doc, Anr (1944-2003): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/09/doc-ant-1944-2003.html

Hawai'iloa: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/09/hawaiiloa.html

Wakea: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/10/wakea.html

Old Hawaiian Surfing Legends: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/11/old-hawaiian-surfing-legends.html

Earliest Peruvian Surfing: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/11/earliest-peruvian-surfing.html

LS Chapters Added First Half of 2022

In the first half of 2022, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added include:

Surfing's Origins: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/02/surfings-origins.html

Children of The Tide: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/03/children-of-tide.html

Surf Music: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/04/surf-music.html

Surf Wear: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/06/surf-wear.html

Polynesian Beginnings: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/06/polynesian-beginnings.html

LS Chapters Added Later in 2021

In the latter half of 2021, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added, edited or offered free include:

 

The Ka'iulani Board: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/07/the-kaiulani-board.html

E.J. Oshier: Between The Cove and 'Nofre: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/09/ej-oshier-between-cove-and-nofre.html

 

Tommy Zahn (1924-1991): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/11/tommy-zahn-1924-1991.html

 

 

 

LS Chapters Added First Half 2021

In the first half of 2021, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added, edited or offered free include:

Dora: http://www.legendarysurfers.com/2014/12/dora.html

Da Bull: Greg Noll: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/01/da-bull-greg-noll.html

Surfing Year 1962: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/02/surfing-year-1962.html

Ricky Grigg (1937-2014): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/03/ricky-grigg-1937-2014.html

Surfing Year 1963: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/04/surfing-year-1963.html

Dewey Weber (1938-1993): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2021/05/dewey-weber-1938-1993.html

LS Chapters Added Later in 2020

In the last half of 2020, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added, edited or offered free include:

Surfing Year 1956: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/05/surfing-year-1956.html

Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz (1921-2014): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/06/dorian-doc-paskowitz-1921-2014.html

Surfing Year 1958: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/07/surfing-year-1958.html

From Wood to Foam: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/07/from-wood-to-foam.html

The Malibu Board: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/08/the-malibu-board.html

Surfing Year 1959: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/08/surfing-year-1959.html

Phil Edwards: The Early Years: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/09/phil-edwards-early-years.html

Surfing Decade: The 1910's: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/09/surfing-decade-1910s.html

Surfing Year 1960: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/10/surfing-year-1960.html

Surfing Decade: The 1920's: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/10/surfing-decade-1920s.html

Gene "Tarzan" Smith (1911-1986): http://www.legendarysurfers.com/2014/12/tarzan.html

Surfing Year 1961: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/12/surfing-year-1961.html

The Malibu Board

Now, completely free in ebook format for reading and/or downloading:

http://www.legendarysurfers.com/2014/12/the-malibu-board.html

Chapters Added in Early 2020

In the first half of 2020, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters added -- both new, edited and freed from behind a pay wall -- include:

Bud Browne (1912-2008): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/01/bud-browne-1912-2008.html

Surfing Year 1955: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/02/surfing-year-1955.html

Malibu: Tomol to Tubesteak: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/04/malibu-tomol-to-tubesteak.html

Surfing Year 1956: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2020/05/surfing-year-1956.html

Surfing's Revival (1900-1915): https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2019/10/surfings-revival-1900-1915.html

Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culture: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2018/05/traditional-hawaiian-surf-culture.html

Traditional Hawaiian Surfboards: https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2018/05/traditional-hawaiian-surfboards.html

Buzzy Trent (1929-2006)

Aloha and welcome to this chapter of Legendary Surfers on legendary surfer Buzzy Trent.

Buzzy Trent; photo by Leroy Grannis 

Contents

WW II Malibu & Post Era Surfing with Simmons

To & Fro the Beach

Tijuana Sloughs, Christmas Time, December 1949

Sunset Cliffs, January 1951

Before The Call of The Islands

Makaha, 1952

Makaha, 1953

Bob Simmons on The North Shore

The Photo Seen ‘Round The World

Talk Story

Makaha & The North Shore, 1954

Quonset Hut Life

Greg Noll & The Hermosa Guys, 1954

Phil Edwards on The North Shore, 1955

All Out Attack on The North Shore, 1955

Laniakea, November 1955

Outside Reefs

Coast Haoles Takeover The North Shore

Waimea Broke Open, November 1957

Later Years

“You don’t go hunting elephant with a BB gun. If you’re going to hunt big waves, take a big gun.” ¹

“Life’s a supermarket, Kurnz. Put anything you want in the shopping cart, but you have to deal with the checker on the way out the door.” ²

To read the chapter, please go here: 

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2019/12/buzzy-trent-1929-2006.html

Surfing Year 1954

Aloha and welcome to the LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on surfing as it was in 1954.

Disclaimer: I've tried my best to pin-point surfing events and stories that took place in 1954, but realize there may be some inconsistencies in the chronology.

Rick, Mike, Sonny and Bing. Photo by Velzy.

Contents

George Downing

Phil Edwards

Mike Doyle

Makaha

Miki and Mickey

The Death of Simmons

Greg Noll Hits the North Shore

Makaha Quonset Huts

A Haole in Waipahu High

Pau Malu = Sunset Beach

Henry “Hanalei” Preece

The Hike Around Kaena Point

Makaha International Surfing Championships

Last Days of the Hot Curl

To read the chapter on 1954, please go here:

 https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2019/11/surfing-year-1954.html