The human act of riding ocean waves on floatation devices has been going on for thousands of years. We, in fact, do not know how many thousands of years. It has been reasonably estimated that the act involving wooden boards could date as far back as 2000 B.C. (4000 B.P.), before the beginning of the Polynesian migration across the
If we count canoe surfing, the act must be far older than that and if we
include bodysurfing, then we must consider the span of time in terms of tens of
thousands of years.
Surfing on boards – he’e nalu – rose to a high level of development in the Hawaiian Islands sometime after Polynesians first settledthe Hawaiian chain beginning around 300 A.D. (2300 B.P.). “Wave sliding” using boards – along with canoe and body surfing – not only became important parts of the lifestyle of all Hawaiians prior to European contact in the later 1700s, but was also integrally connected with Hawaiian culture. In stark contrast to this “golden age,” surfing fell to an almost ignominious near-death during the 1800s – mostly due to European and American cultural, political and religious influences.
During “The Revival” period of surfing at the very beginning of the Twentieth Century, surfing’s decline was arrested and set back on a course of natural evolution. Since that time, surfing has grown vastly in popularity and now is practiced in most every corner of the world. Key figures in this resurgent interest in surfing include: George Freeth, Alexander Hume Ford, Jack London, Duke Paoa Kahanamoku,
Dad Center, Dudie Miller, “John D” Kaupiko and numerous
beach boys and surfing wahines at Waikiki,
on O’ahu, in the first two decades of the 1900s.
A little surprisingly to those of us looking back at it now, surfing’s growth was not explosive following its resurgence, but rather a slow and gradual progression. For this reason, the surfing years between 1912 and 1928 are not well known and, predictably not well documented.
We, of course, know the historical context. The 1910s were dominated by events that would lead to the First World War. The war, itself, was vastly different than any other war that had preceded it. “The total number of casualties, including killed, wounded, and missing, is figured at 37.5 million… An outbreak of influenza in the autumn of 1918 compounded the death toll as it swept through populations already weakened by the nutritional privations of total war.”
Europe and other nations
that had been caught up in the global struggle, “Wartime disruption helped
cause a sharp recession in 1920-21… For most nations, prosperity returned only
in the mid-1920s.” 
“The catastrophic toll of the war also resulted in a new, looser code of morality, especially in a growing urban environment. A new generation, decimated by war, felt betrayed by their elders and rejected the more austere standards of conduct they had been taught as children.” 
To truly appreciate the great surfing decade that the 1930s was, it is important to understand this time leading into it, in the Earth zones where surfers were riding waves in the Hawaiian style: Australia, Southern California and – of course – Waikiki.
It is still a common misconception that surfing in Australia began in 1914-15, with the visit of Duke Kahanamoku to New South Wales and the surfing demonstrations he gave at that time. In fact,
’s surfing roots go much
further back – as far as the late 1800s, before legal rights to swim in the
open sea had even been won.
This was because “In Australia,” emphasized the Australian authors of Surfing
Subcultures, “the origins of surfing were based on body surfing rather than
on traditional board riding... the early Australian settlers – mainly of
English origin – found no native surfing tradition to encourage or restrict
either body or craft-based surfing, as was the case in Australia .” Hawaii
Australian surfing’s Polynesian connection came in the form of Alick Wickham and Tommy Tana. In the 1890s, Alick Wickham, a native of the
became an important influence on Australian swimming when he demonstrated a “crawl”
stroke that was later exported to the rest of the world as the “Australian
crawl.” Solomon Islands
Around the same time another South Sea Islander, Tommy Tana – a youth employed as a houseboy in the Manly district – was body surfing at the beach there. Tana hailed from the Pacific
of Tana, in the New Hebrides, which is
now called by its traditional name of . He amazed onlookers at Vanuatu
and inspired others to dive in. His style was studied and copied by Manly
swimmers like Eric Moore, Arthur Lowe and Freddie Williams. Williams soon
became the first local considered to fully master bodysurfing. Later on,
Freddie Williams became a public figure when he made the first publicized
rescue of another swimmer at Manly
Beach . Manly Beach
After the turn of the century, Alick Wickham shaped the first surfboard in
Hand carved from a large piece of driftwood found on Curl Curl beach, this
board was so bad it actually sank.
Wickham’s knowledge of stand-up surfing using a board was obviously limited and
is a testimony of how far surfing had fallen in such Polynesian locales as the Australia
by the late 1800s. Solomon Islands
When more novice swimmers and non-swimmers started ocean bathing off unsupervised beaches, accidents became numerous and soon raised hell with the public. At
alone, there were 16 drownings in the space of 10 years. Local government
authorities and regulars at the beaches eventually figured out that the general
public would need to be either regulated or monitored. This realization became
the driving force for the formation of the Australian Surf Life Saving movement. Manly
By 1909, the newly formed Australian Surf Life Saving Association published that there were eleven clubs active in
. According to the report, no
lives had been lost in the previous twelve months while beach patrols had been
operating. Thereafter, similar reports were made with similar statistics even
though “surf bathing” and surfing grew at a dramatic rate across the beaches of
New South Wales .
By 1964, there would be 112 clubs operating in Australia alone. New South Wales
The first Surf Carnival was held on January 25th 1908 at
Six clubs competed and the first surfboat race, with various craft, was won by
Little Coogee (now Clovelly), using their whale boat. Surf Carnivals quickly
become a popular method of revenue for the Live Saving Clubs. The revenue from
gate receipts were used to purchase gear and improve facilities.
Tamarama Carnival, alone, attracted fifteen thousand spectators in February
That same year, Alexander Hume Ford – the man who more than anyone helped publicize surfing at
during the first two decades of the Twentieth Century – visited Manly. He
wrote, curiously, that “I wanted to try riding the waves on a surf-board, but
it is forbidden.”
Many writers – including myself, once upon a time – have written that before Duke Kahanamoku came to
and became the first one
to really popularize the sport, there were no surfers riding surfboards. The
historical record proves that this is not correct. Australia
While assisting with the 1908 trade agreements between
Alexander Hume Ford introduced surfing to Australian Percy Hunter, the head of
the New South Wales Immigration and Tourism Bureau. Two years later, when Ford
visited New Zealand Australia again in
1910, he noted that there were already several surfboards stashed at .
This was a full four and a half years before Duke
Kahanamoku visited Manly
for the first time and got credited for stoking Australians on stand-up
During this time, amongst some surf lifesavers, there was an understanding of what surfboards were. It was noted that “Fred Notting painted a brace of slabs and named them Honolulu Queen and Fiji Flyer; gay they were to look at but they were not surfboards.”
In 1912, well-known Australian swimmer, local businessman and politician Charles D. Paterson, of
Manly Beach, Sydney, brought
a solid, heavy redwood board back with him from . He and some local bodysurfers tried
to ride it, but with little success. “When he and his mates couldn’t figure out
how to ride it,” Duke biographer Sandra Hall wrote, “his wife used it as an
ironing board.” Hawai’i
Yet, Patterson and his mates were not the only ones who had attempted surfboard riding or were surfing prior to Duke’s visit. Early in 1912, the Daily Telegraph reported on the second Freshwater Life Saving Carnival held on January 26th. In the account of the day’s events, there is mention of surfboard riding: “A clever exhibition of surf board shooting was given by Mr. Walker, of the Manly Seagulls Surf Club. With his Hawaiian surf board he drew much applause for his clever feats, coming in on the breaker standing balanced on his feet or his head.” Whether the board
rode on was a knock-off of Patterson’s, Patterson’s, or an entirely separate
board is unknown. Walker
We do know for sure that following the arrival of C.D. Paterson’s board at Manly in 1912, a small group – the Walker Brothers, Steve McKelvey, Jack Reynolds, Fred Notting, Basil Kirke, Jack Reynolds, Norman Roberts, Geoff Wyld, Tom Walker, Claude West (then aged 13) and Miss Esma Amor – all attempted surf riding on replica boards. Some of these tried surfing before and some after Duke’s visit. Made from Californian redwood by Les Hinds, a local builder from
North Steyne, they were 8
ft long, 20” wide, 11/2” thick and weighed 35 pounds. Riding the boards was
limited to launching onto broken waves from a standing position and riding
white water straight in, either prone or kneeling. Standing rides on the board
for up to 50 yards/meters were considered outstanding.
by 1913-14, prone boards four to five feet long, one inch thick, and about a
foot wide were in use on Coolangatta Beaches.
These were made from slabs of cedar or pine and probably used as bodyboards.
Charlie Faukner read of Duke
Kahanamoku’s surf riding and used a board as an aqua planner on the Queensland ,
to ride at Greenmount in 1914.
Sometime slightly before 1914, at Deewhy, “Long Harry” Taylor “made a board
resembling an old-fashioned church door, but his efforts in the surf were so
futile they became ridiculous.” Tweed
So, yes, surfing on wooden boards – or their facsimile – had already begun by the time Duke Kahanamoku first visited
in 1914-15. Even so, it is
undeniable that it was Duke’s shaping his own board and then riding it at
Freshwater that really got surfing going in Australia . His riding was widely
publicized and resulted in huge enthusiasm for stand-up surfing in Australia . Unfortunately,
this stoke was rapidly dampened by the onset of World War I, when many young
Australians lost their lives on the battlefields of Europe, including Manly
captain and Olympic swimming champion, Cecil Healy. Surfing, like most other
Australian recreational activities, was largely put on hold until after 1918. New South Wales
Duke Kahanamoku’s tandem partner while in
Australia, Isabel Letham, continued board riding
at Freshwater up to 1918 when she moved to the to work as a professional swimming
Other prominent boardriders in the Manly area, post-Duke, were Steve Dowling, “Busty”
Walker, Geoff Wyld, Ossie Downing, Reg Vaughn (Manly), Tom Walker (Seagulls),
Barton Ronald, Billy Hill and Lyal Pidcock. USA
Circa 1915, seventeen year old Grace Wootton (nee Smith) was encouraged to try prone boarding – body boarding – at
Using a board brought to Point Lonsdale, Victoria Australia
by “a Mr. Jackson and a Mr. Goldie from ,”
and after some basic instruction, Grace Wootton became a proficient and stoked
surfer. A local carpenter was commissioned to make a board for her, for the
following season. This board was solid timber, approximately 6 feet x 16 inches
and a little over 1-inch thick. The cost of 12 shillings included her initials
(GW) carved at one end. Photographs of Grace Wootton taken in 1916 show her
surfing and her personally modified woolen swimsuit, purchased from Ball and
Welch (Outfitters), Melbourne. Hawaii
Following Duke’s surfing demonstrations in
Australia and , many boards were made in
Oceana based on his handcrafted design. New Zealand
Circa 1915, Collaroy Surf Life Saving Club member, Alf “Weary” Lee saw Duke Kahanamoku’s Dee Why demonstration and built his own board according to Duke’s design. Since the board was stored in the club house, it was available for younger club members to have a go of it.
Duke’s most stoked pupil, Claude West, was initially at the Freshwater Club but later moved to Manly. He became
’s top boardrider for the
next 10 years. Starting out riding Duke’s original pine board, West really got
into stand-up surfing and encouraged others, including “Snowy” McAllister of
Manly and Adrian Curlewis of Australia . He went on to become a professional lifesaver
for many years. Manly
two copies of Duke Kahanamoku’s pine board were made for the Greenmount Surf
Lifesaving Club. The arrival of the two boards prompted further replicas made
and surfed by Sid “Splinter” Chapman, Andy Gibson and a surfer known only as
Winders. Prices varied from two shillings and sixpence to seven shillings and
In 1919 Louis Whyte, a
businessman, and Ian McGillivray visited Hawai‘i and purchased solid redwood
boards from Duke Kahanamoku. The boards were subsequently ridden at Geelong . Lorne Point, Victoria
John Ralston, a
and land developer, introduced surfboards at Palm Beach,
With such encouragement, Sydney
became a popular board riding beach, producing several champions and a strong
pro-surfboard lobby within the ASLA. Palm Beach
Some of the Surf Life Saving clubs became centers of board riding, clubhouses becoming storage facilities for boards, in addition to being places where club members could gather and hang out.
With the end of World War I in 1918, military technological developments like industrial glues and varnishes were applied to marine craft, including surfboard construction.
In the early years of its establishment, board riding was given little support by the Surf Life Surfing Association. Competitions as part of carnivals were judged subjectively. For example, a headstand scored maximum points although it had little to do with how well one rode the wave. With a growing emphasis on rescue techniques, it was paddling skill that became the focus when it came to surfboard use. Record keeping for surfing events was an after thought. Often, board events were either not held or not recorded, and since the ASLA was in its infancy and basically a
organization, results were
open to dispute. New South Wales
Amazingly, it was not until 1946 that the first officially-recognized Australian Longboard Championship took place. However, the first credited Australian surfing magazine was published in 1917. This was Manly Surf Club’s The Surf, which first published on December 1, 1917. It ran for twenty editions, until April 27, 1918.
In February 1920, Claude West used his board to rescue a swimmer at Manly. The rescuee was the Australian Goveror-General, Sir Ronald Mungo Fergerson, who presented his rescuer with his silver dress watch, in appreciation.
A newspaper report of the “Australian Championships” at Manly, March 1920, records the results of a surfboard race:
1. A. McKenzie (
2. Oswald Downing (Manly)
3. A. Moxan (
A similar newspaper report of the Bondi Championships, April 1921, records the results of a surfboard race as:
1. A. McKenzie (
2. A. Moxan
Other starters were Oswald Downing and Claude West (Manly).
By 1921, the Surf Life Saving Association printed their first handbook. It probably formed the basis for subsequent publications later entitled the “Handbook of the Surf Life Saving Association of Australia.”
At the Australian Championships at Manly in 1922, the board event results were:
1. Claude West (Manly)
2. A. McKenzie (
3. Oswald Downing (Manly)
West, who had apparently dominated the demonstrations, was soon to retire.
Oswald Downing was an early board builder and a trainee architect who had drawn up his own surfboard construction plans. These are possibly the plans printed in the 1923 edition of The Australian Surf Life Saving Handbook.
In celebration of Collaroy SLSC’s victory in the Alarm Reel Race at the Australian Championships at Manly in 1922, swimmer Ron Harris’ family commissioned Buster Quinn (a cabinet maker with Anthony Hordens) to make a surfboard. Quinn made the board from a single piece of Californian Redwood at the Dingbats’ Camp. Before it was completed, however, Harris’ father died and the family left Collaroy. Chic Proctor acquired the board in Harris’ absence and it remains in the clubhouse to this day as the Club’s Life Members Honour Board.
With growing numbers of surf board riders, the Manly Council considered banning surfboards altogether, in 1923, in the interest of the public safety of bodysurfers. This idea was forgotten when one day at the beach, three city councilors witnessed a rescue of three swimmers in high surf by Claude West using his surfboard. Reversing their position, the Council commended the use of surfboards as rescue craft.
At the 1924 the Australian Championships at Manly, the surfboard display was won by Charles Justin “Snowy” McAlister of the Manly Surf Club. As a kid, he had watched Duke ride in 1915. Thereafter, Snowy soon began surfing on his mother’s pine ironing board. “I used to wag school and rush down to the beach with it,” he recalled. “I got away with it a number of times, but she eventually found out because I would come home sunburnt.” The pine ironing board was followed by a self-made plywood board and his first full size board, a gift from Oswald Downing.
Later, Snowy made his own solid redwood board. “I used to go into the timber yards in the city and buy a ten by three foot piece of wood about two feet thick (sic, inches?), which I had delivered to the cargo wharf beside the Manly ferry.
“I’d lug it home, then carve it, varnish it overnight and try it out the next morning.
“We were getting murdered in those days.
“The boards had no fins.
“We’d go straight down the face of the wave instead of riding the corners as the Duke had done. When we saw him do that we thought he was just riding crooked.”
Starting out on an impressive competitive record, Snowy McAlister won board displays in Sydney in 1923-24 (Manly), 1924-25 (Manly), 1925-26 (North Bondi) and 1926-27 (Manly, second Les Ellinson).
His record at
was even more outstanding, with wins in 1923-24, 1925-26, 1927-28, 1930-31,
1931-32, 1934-35 and 1935-36. All these victories were on solid boards. He
competed to 1938 and then made a comeback at the 1956 Olympic Carnival,
Snowy was the nation’s unofficial national surfboard champion from 1924 to
1928. He visited Newcastle South Africa
and England on the way to
the Amsterdam Olympics in 1928, accompanying another Manly Surf Club member
Andrew “Boy” .
Following the introduction of the Blake Hollow board to Carlton in 1934, Snowy turned to
the surfski as his preferred wave riding craft. Australia
Another noted surfer of this formative period in Australian surfing was Adrian Curlewis. Around 1923, Curlewis bought a used 70 pound board from Claude West, so he could surf regularly at
. This board was replaced by one of
similar design in 1926, a board built by Les V. Hind of Palm Beach North
Steyne for five pounds and fifteen shillings, including delivery.
Curlewis became a noted surf performer, becoming somewhat of a star thanks a
photograph printed in an Australian magazine in 1936.
Sir Adrian Curlewis was born in 1901. He graduated from
and was called to the Bar in 1927. He served in Sydney
in World War II and was a prisoner of war from 1942
to 1945. He held the Presidency of the Surf Life Saving Association of
Australia from 1933 to 1974, his position as sole Life Governor of that
Association from 1974, and his Presidency of the International Council of Surf
Life Saving from 1956 to 1973. Curlewis served as a New South Wales District
Court Judge from 1948 to 1971, retiring at the age of 70.
Perhaps because of his early board riding experiences and long association with
surf lifesaving organizations, he was a noted 1960s opponent of the growth of
an independent surf culture centered on wave riding.
At Coolangatta, boardriding continued to expand during the 1920s. Basic competitions (using a standing take-off) were organized and riders included Clarrie Englert, Bill Davies, “Bluey” Gray and later, Jack
. Bluey Gray, in fact,
wrote to Hawaiian and Californian surfers in an attempt to learn more about
current developments in the sport. Problems in sourcing suitable redwood saw “Splinter”
Chapman, one of the coast’s top riders, use local Bolly gum to build boards. Ajax
North of Coolangatta, the first full-sized board was probably owned by John Russell of the Main Beach Club, circa 1925.
Sydney rider Anslie “Sprint”
Walker surfed at .
When he encountered trouble transporting the board between Portsea and home, he
solved the problem by leaving his board at the beach, buried in the sand. The
board was eventually donated to the Torquay Surf Live Saving Club, but was
later destroyed when the club house burnt down in 1970. Sprint solved this
problem, too, by building a replica from Canadian redwood with an adze, the way
it had been done originally. Portsea, Victoria
The North Steyne Surf Life Saving Club promoted their 4th annual carnival, scheduled for December 19, 1925 at 2:45 p.m., with a flyer printed by the Manly Daily Press. The noted “Surf and Beach Attractions” included: “1200 Competitors, 18 Leading Surf Life Saving Clubs Participating - Surf Boat Races, Thrills and Spills, Board Exhibitions, All State Surf Swimming Champions Competing.”
The Australian Surf Life Saving Association promoted their annual surf championships, scheduled for February 27, 1926 at 2.30 p.m., with a flyer printed by the Mortons Ltd. Sydney. It emphasized: “Surf Boats, Surf Shooting and Surf Board Displays by Real Champions.”
In the late 1920s, Collaroy SLSC member Bert Chequer manufactured surfboards commercially and 15 shillings cheaper than
North Steyne builder Les Hind.
In the early 1920s, Chequer had been captivated by the likes of board riders
such as Weary Lee, Chic Proctor and Ron Harris and made his first surfboard at
17 using a design similar to Buster Quinn’s. As the years progressed, Chequer
refined Quinn’s design, producing a board which was held in high regard by many
other board riders in the Club. Dick Swift requested he build him a board (the
board is still in the Club house) and with delivery of the board a flood of similar
requests came his way. So, with this development and little work in his father’s
building business to keep him busy, Chequer decided to try his hand at
commercial surfboard building – one of the earliest such enterprises in the
country. The cost of a Chequer board was £5 which included delivery.
Chequer bought his timber from
’s timber merchants where it was kiln
dried before delivery. While he preferred cedar, its expense meant that he was
forced to use Californian Redwood. The board was crafted from a single piece of
wood, meaning that Chequer’s small workshop was usually a sea of wood shavings.
A board took just two days to build and was totally shaped by hand. Once
shaped, the board was coated with Linseed oil, before two coats of Velspar yacht
varnish was applied. In his initial experimentation with the varnish on his own
board, the yellow finish it gave off prompted the board to be known as the “Yellow
Peril.” Boards were usually intricately marked either with a name, the initials
of the owner, or with the Club emblem. Hudson
Chequer was soon supplying individuals and clubs up and down the
New South Wales coast and as far away as Phillip Island
in . While
the business was relatively successful, there was a downside for Chequer. Because
he was a surfboard manufacturer, making money out of what was now regarded as a
piece of life saving equipment; the Association claimed he was no longer an
amateur by their definition. He was therefore prohibited from surf life saving
competition between 1932 and 1936. Victoria
In the late 1920s, T.A. Brown and A. Williams used a corkwood board from
at Byron Bay NSW. Honolulu
Eric Mallen purchased a cedar slab that was once the counter of the Commerical Bank, and had it shaped into a fouteen foot board by Jack Wilson. Proving to be too unwieldy, the board was later cut down, decorated and named “Leaping Lena.” On large days, Eric Mallen would leap off the end of the large jetty that ran out from
paddling. Main Street
On Sunday, April 26, 1931, a belt and reel rescue attempt at Collaroy in extreme weed and swell conditions resulted in the death of Collaroy SLSC member, George “Jordie” Greenwell. Even though the use of the reel was questionable in thick weed and high swell conditions, the inability of Greenwell to release himself from the belt was the main reason for his demise. Despite demands on the SLSA’s Gear Committee, the “Ross safety belt” – designed to ensure the lifesaver from just such an entanglement – did not become compulsory for member clubs until the 1950s. Greenwell was posthumously awarded the Meritious Award in Silver, the SLSA’s highest honor.
While Greenwell’s drowning resurrected the debate on surf belts, there were two more immediate and positive developments from the drowning. The first was an intensification of Association trials using waxed line to see if it would “overcome the difficulty of seaweed.” The other was the Association’s endorsement of the use of surfboards as life saving equipment. In the Greenwell drowning itself, the surfboard had proved its usefulness in surf with a high seaweed content.
In the 1920s, surfboards had been used by a number of clubs as rescue apparatus. While the line and reel remained the predominant rescue technique, the surfboard rivaled the surf boat for the number of rescues accorded to it each season. Such use, however, had been against the wishes of the Association and lifesavers like Manly’s Claude West were reprimanded for their use.
During the 1929-30 season, the Collaroy Annual Report recorded rescues performed using surfboards, noting two such. The following season, four surfboard rescues were recorded. The figure was probably much greater, in reality, due to the fact that surfboards were often used to assist tired swimmers before they got into actual difficulties. While confined almost exclusively to surf club use, surfboards were usually only used by members who were not on patrol duty.
The data in club annual reports demonstrated to the Association that most clubs saw surfboards as useful rescue craft. Within the Association, individuals such as Greg Dellit, Adrian Curlewis and Bert Chequer (who had joined the Board of Examiners) began to champion the surfboard. Eventually, interested parties agreed that surfboards should be trialed so their usefulness could be gauged. These trials were held in the swimming pool of the Tattersals Club in
The trials confirmed the usefulness of surfboards as flotation devices in
multiple and lone lifesaver rescues. The fact they mostly went over rather than
through sea weed was also noted. Sydney
By the start of the 1930s,
California’s surfing epicenter was located at Corona del Mar. But
SoCal surfing had begun up the coast first at Venice
in 1907, then Redondo and ,
spreading out from those beaches. Huntington
Surfing’s evolution in the
area can be seen in a reading of the local newspapers of the period, especially
the ones around . Surfing in Long Beach ? It is hard to imagine today, but
once upon a time – before the breakwater was built in the early 1940s and
before the area’s massive landfill was undertaken – not only did excellent surf
break upon its shores, but Long Beach Long Beach was once
considered “the Waikiki of the .”
Today, despite the disappearance of the Pacific Coast that gave the city its name, some surfers still
remember the old days and for those of us a bit younger, we have the newspaper
“W.P. Wheeler of
Monroe, Mich., who has arrived in Long Beach
to spend the summer after a winter in Hawaii,
suggests that some enterprising man with a little money build and put in
operation a lot of surf boats, for which Waikiki beach, is famous. Honolulu
“Mr. Wheeler says that
is the only beach he has ever seen which can compare with the famous Waikiki, and that the surf rolls here exactly as it does
at that beach.
“‘When I saw those catamarans, or surf boats, operated at
Waikiki,’ said Mr. Wheeler, ‘I wondered why the Pacific
coast beach resorts did not take to them. I was told while in Honolulu,
by an admirer of Waikiki, that no beach on the California
coast was as shallow and long as Waikiki. Now
I know that the fellow was not well informed, for the beach here is exactly
like the Hawaiian beach.’”
To my knowledge, the first recorded lifesaving action using surfboards in U.S. Mainland waters took place on September 3, 1911:
Daily Telegram, September 4, 1911 – “TWO LIVES SAVED BY SKILLFUL USE OF HAWAIIAN SURFERS
“One of the most novel rescues every pulled off in the surf at Long Beach was accomplished yesterday afternoon on the beach west of Magnolia Avenue when Paul Rowan of Long Beach and a stranger who slipped away before his identity could be discovered, were saved from drowning by Charles Allbright and A.J. Stout.
“The two rescuers were also nearly exhausted and were helped to the beach during the latter part of their spectacular trip by the hotel life guard, John Leonard, who was unaware of the trouble until he saw the men struggling to reach shore against a strong rip tide.
“Both the rescuers met and became close friends in
Hawaiian surfboards over with them recently to try them out in the local surf. Paul
Rowan, who is a strong swimmer, was out beyond the end of the lifelines, which
extend from the beach to a point beyond the breakers. He was swimming about,
enjoying the exercise when he heard a cry from a man who was nearer the shore,
but just beyond the breakers. Honolulu
“‘For God’s sake, help me. I have a wife on shore,’ gurgled the stranger, a man of about thirty years of age, as he began to sink.
“Rowan went to his help with a swift overhand stroke and caught him just as he was sinking a second time in the strong offshore current.
“The stranger immediately grabbed hold of Rowan and held him so that he had to fight to free his arms. Rowan was also dragged under. It was at this point that Allbright and Stout, on their surfboards, became aware of the situation.
“Allbright grabbed Rowan, who was dizzy from his forced immersion and placed him on his surfboard. Stout did the same for the stranger. Just then a succession of big breakers came along and the two men, with their burdens, coasted magnificently inshore against the rip tide.
“The peculiarity of the Hawaiian surfboards was to a large extent responsible for the effectiveness of the rescue of both the stranger and his first rescuer, Paul Rowan. The boards are made of the beautifully grained koa wood of the Hawaiian Isles and are six feet long. They are three inches thick and eighteen inches wide.
“Both Allbright and Stout are expert surfboard riders and for years coasted on the foaming breakers which run in on the beach between Diamond Head and
There the mountain high breakers travel at great speeds for a distance of
nearly half a mile. Yesterday they were riding the breakers with the greatest
ease in front of the Honolulu
and a large crowd was watching them as they stood up on the boards and coasted
rapidly ashore. The rescues yesterday were probably the first of the kind. The
success of the men with their boards may result in the general use of the same
type at the beach. Virginia Hotel
“Both Allbright and Stout made light of the incident, and from information supplied from other sources it was learned that they frequently make similar rescues out in the
Long Beach Press, February 26, 1921 – “NOVEL SURF BOARD AND CANOES MADE
“Surf-boating has made such an appeal to visitors to
during the past
year that Victor K. Hart, manager of Long Beach Venetian
Square; and T. Bennett Shutt, local building
contractor, have completed arrangements to manufacture surf boards and surf
canoes here in quantity. A temporary factory has been opened and twenty of the
surfboards and a dozen canoes are now being built.
“Erection of the flood control jetties has checked the ocean currents to such an extent that splendid surf-boating is now to be enjoyed on the west beach. The surfboards under construction here were designed by Hart and Shutt and are said to be lighter and different in shape to the Hawaiian island boards.”
first surfers was Haig (Hal) Prieste, who won an Olympic diving medal at the
1920 Olympics. There, he met Duke Kahanamoku and accepted an invitation to
visit him in Hawai‘i, where he took up surfing and became an honorary member of
the Hui Nalu: Long Beach
Long Beach boy
and former Poly High student, winner of third place in the Olympic games diving
contests, leaves Friday for San Francisco en
route to the Hawaiian islands, where he will enter the junior national high
diving contest which is to be a feature of a big aquatic carnival to be held in
will be the only swimmer to enter the meet from the mainland, a special request
for his presence having been made by the swimming officials at Honolulu . Honolulu
“Following his appearance at
Prieste may continue to the Antipodes where he
has been requested to enter a number of contests with the best of the Australian
swimmers and divers. Whether he will make this trip or not depends upon
contracts which he has with motion picture concerns. Prieste formerly was
connected with Mack Sennet and with the Rollin and Gasnier studios doing ‘dare
devil’ stunts in comedy productions. He has achieved quite a reputation locally
as a sleight of hand entertainer in addition to his prowess as a high diver.”
Daily Telegram, August 15, 1921 – “HAIG PRIESTE HOME FROM THREE MONTHS OF HAWAIIAN TOUR: HAS MAMMOTH SURFBOARD GIVEN HIM
“Haig Prieste, Olympic diving champion, returned to
Long Beach with a ukulele, an oversize surfboard and an
interesting story of three months in the Hawaiian Islands.
He intended to remain three weeks when he left as the only American entrant in
the Hawaiian carnival staged in the latter part of May. The charm of the
islands, the determination to master Hawaiian surf board riding – and the
ukulele – and an opportunity to gather a couple of spare diving championships
kept him several weeks overtime.
“He won the junior national high diving title and the springboard diving championship of a half dozen islands. He brought with him the Castle and Cook trophy and several others of lesser significance. He was the guest of honor and an honorary member of the Hui Nalu swimming club, the leading aquatic organization of the islands.
“Prieste and Duke Kahanamoku palled around together at
for a time. Prieste
astonished the natives when he learned to ride the gigantic surfboards standing
on his hands. ‘It’s the greatest sport in the world,’ he said today. Hilo
“Prieste says that the expert Hawaiian surfriders are able to ride for three-quarters of a mile on their boards. They have grown up with a surfboard in one hand, and by learning the formation of the coral reefs and the various currents, they are able to pilot their boards for great distances in a zigzag course. The waves bowl them along at a speed of 35 miles per hour. There is a great knack in catching the wave at the proper angle, Prieste says. Unless the board is pointed diagonally at the correct angle at the correct moment both board and rider will be dumped on the coral floor of the ocean. Prieste spent from 8 to 10 hours in the water each day.”
Press-Telegram, December 31, 1926 – “BEACH GREATEST
“Board surfing has been growing in popularity year by year. While most of the boards used are short and only for the surf after it has broken, yet there have developed some who have learned to ride the waves while they are still huge and green without any white water. Some of the beach guards have mastered an art before confined to the surfing beaches of the
“Even some of the
girls have become proficient in this exciting
water sport.” Long
tandem surfing: California
Press-Telegram, March 18, 1927 – “TWO DARE DEATH
“A special exhibition of fancy riding on surfboards will be performed by Elmer Peck and Miriam Tizzard at
. Peck has attained national
stunts that he has performed in all parts of this country as well as in the
waters off Alamitos Bay
and the South American republics. Hawaii
“Miss Tizzard is a local girl and though she has only been under Mr. Peck’s direction for two weeks he regards her as one of the most apt pupils that he has ever trained. He says that she is perfectly at home on the elusive surfboard. Special stunts in which the two combine will be a feature of the program offered.”
Although there were small numbers of “Roaring ‘20s” surfers riding waves at a limited number of breaks from
Monica to ,
the most popular break was Corona del Mar. This had probably as much to do with
the nightlife at Balboa, north across the channel leading to San Diego Newport Harbor,
as it was to ’s
exceptionally nice set-up, surf-wise. The good surf at Corona was all about the south jetty. Corona
Although not originally intended for surfers, the cement jetty at Corona del Mar was a boon for surfriders. The 800-foot long jetty stretched from the rocks at Big Corona all the way to the beach. When the swells were running, a surfer could launch from the end of the jetty, ride in next to it for approximately 800 feet, then climb up a chain ladder, run out on the jetty and do the same thing all over again. Perhaps more importantly, waves jacked up at
unlike they did anywhere else – also due to the jetty. Corona
In 1923, two beacon lights were installed at the jetty entrance. These were written about in a Long Beach Press article, in December: “The two beacon lights at the end of the jetty protecting the entrance of
harbor are complete and have been turned over to the care of Antar Deraga, head
of the Balboa life saving guards… The lights are about thirty feet above the
ocean level and can be seen by all ships passing on the east side of Catalina. Newport
“The outer beacon light is equipped with a three-fourths foot burner and will burn about 160 days. It flashes one second and five seconds dark. It is equipped with a sun valve for economy of operation. The inner beacon light is equipped with a five-sixteenths-foot burner without sun valve. It should burn 200 days. This beacon flashes every two and a half seconds.
“The government lighthouse service will also supply the keeper here with a lifeboat for use in rescue work. It will be in charge of Mr. Deraga, who is known as one of the most efficient lifeguards on the coast. Before coming here he made an enviable record in Europe and has recently been made a member of the Royal life saving guards of
and given a service medal in recognition of heroic service in the English Channel and also for saving the life of an
English lady in this harbor last summer.”
Antar Deraga was also one of those who, along with standout surfer and Olympic champion Duke Kahanamoku, helped rescue the majority of the crew of the Thelma when it floundered off
in 1925: Newport Beach
“Battling with his surfboard through the heavy seas in which no small boat could live, Kahanamoku, was the first to reach the drowning men. He made three successive trips to the beach and carried four victims the first trip, three the second and one the third.
Plummer and Derega were credited with saving four; while other members of the
rescue party waded into the surf and carried the drowning men to safety…
“The accident occurred at the identical spot near the bell buoy where, almost to a day a year ago, a similar accident occurred and nine men were drowned. Two of the bodies were carried out to sea by the undertow and were never recovered.
“Captain Porter expressed the belief yesterday that at least eight or ten more would have been drowned had not Kahanamoku and Derega been ready with immediate assistance…
“The Hawaiian swimmer was camped on the beach with a party of film players and was just going out for his morning swim when the boat was wrecked. The lifeguards were just going on duty.”
There was an established record of difficulty for boats leaving and entering the Newport Channel on a good swell. In 1927, the city of
voted $500,000 for
a harbor expansion that included changes to the jetties. In 1928, the city
approved $200,000 for work on both the west and east jetties. It was this later
work that would forever change surfing at Corona del Mar – especially the surf
adjacent to the east jetty – and be lamented by surfers who considered Newport Corona the main surfing . beach of Southern California
Surfing’s first dedicated surf photographer Doc Ball eulogized the early surf scene at Corona del Mar, when he later wrote in 1946: “We who knew it will never forget buzzing the end of that slippery, slimy jetty, just barely missing the crushing impact as the sea mashed into the concrete. Nor will we forget the squeeze act when 18 to 20 guys all tried to take off on the same fringing hook. And do you remember the days when you waited near that clanging bell buoy for the next set to arrive?
Mar’s zero surf was hell on the yachtsmen but – holy cow – what stuff for the
Kamaainas. Yes! Those were the days.” Corona Del
During the area’s boom-days of the 1920s, a housing development originally named Balboa Bay Palisades was created in 1923 and morphed into what we now call Corona del Mar. During that decade, the area’s income came mostly from the Rendezvous dance hall, gambling and bootleg liquor. The Rendezvous Ballroom was the place to be and a major destination for touring big bands of the time. On a Saturday night the town bore a resemblance to
Bourbon Street, in , during Mardi
Gras. A number of businesses were involved in gambling. More on the Rendezvous
when we get to talking about Gene “Tarzan” Smith. New Orleans
Surfriding Championship, 1928 First Pacific
While Corona del Mar was in its glory days as the center of
Southern California surfing, history was made there with
the creation of the Pacific Coast Surfriding Championships. Word of it began on
July 16, 1928 when a
Press-Telegram announced: “SURFBOARD CLUB WILL HOLD TITLE MEET AT
HARBOR.” The article read: “The Corona Del Mar Surfboard Club, which claims to
be the largest organization of its kind in the world, will hold a championship
surfboard riding tournament at the Long Beach Corona Del Mar beach at the entrance to on Sunday,
August 5. Newport Harbor
“Some of the most notable surfboard riders in the world are expected to compete, including the famous swimmer and surfboard rider, Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaiian champion; Tom Blake of Redondo, who won two championships, and Harold Jarvis, long distance swimmer of the Los Angeles Athletic Club. Some of the surfboard riders are predicting that new world records will be made here during the meet. So far fifteen surfboard artists have signed up, including some from as far away as
It is planned to make it an annual event.” San Francisco
On the day of the contest, August 5, 1928, the Press-Telegram reported: “PLANS COMPLETED FOR SURFBOARD RIDING TILT.” It went on: “Preparations have been completed for the Pacific Coast surfboard riding championship tournament, to be held at Corona Del Mar, the entrance to Newport Harbor today. Part of the entrance to the harbor is said to be only surpassed by some Hawaiian beaches for surfboard riding.
“Duke Kahanamoku and other well-known surfboard artists will compete. Besides surfboard riding the program will include canoe tilting contests, paddling races and a life-saving exhibition by surfboard riders. In addition to Kahanamoku, other well-known members of the club include Tom Blake of Redondo, Gerard Vultee and Art Vultee of the Los Angeles Athletic Club, Clyde Swedson of the Hollywood Athletic Club, and others.”
More important than the results of who won what, the big story of this first-ever surf contest on the U.S. Mainland was the first-ever unveiling of the hollow surfboard in competition. Tom Blake brought his drilled-hole hollow board innovation and a regular 9-foot 6-inch redwood surfboard back with him by boat from Hawai‘i. Armed with his partially hollow olo replica, Tom subsequently won the first Pacific Coast Surfriding Championships – which he had also helped organize.
Held under direction of Captain Scheffield of the Corona del Mar Surfboard Club, the championship’s main event was a paddle race from shore to the bell buoy, followed by a surf ride in. “500 yards and back; 1st back to win,” Tom remembered. In later documenting the event for his protégé Tommy Zahn in 1972, Tom wrote: “Situation: about 8 or 10 men, including Gerard Vultee (late co-founder of Lockheed; an aeronautical engineer; designer of aircraft and surfboards). He had the longest board; 11-feet. I had a 9’6’ broad riding board. I figured he would be 1st out at the break and therefore should get the first wave in.
“I had this (1st one only) 15-foot paddle board with me for the paddling race (115 lb.). So I decided to use both boards in the surfing race. Had them both on the beach as the starting gun went off. Everybody got a good head start; Vultee in the lead. I slowly proceeded to put the 15’ P.B. in the water, then went back to get the 9 ½ job; placed it upon the P.B. and started after the field, now 50 yards out. Slowly caught and passed them at 300 yards and arrived at the starting break [the bell buoy] alone with a minute to spare – discarded the long board and lined up for the 1st wave. They were about 6 or 7 feet high; not large, but strong.
“Vultee arrived first, then the rest; we all had to wait a few minutes for a set of waves. Vultee and me took after the first one. He got it and took off on the left side, for shore. But, the second wave was a bit bigger. I got it and slid right. Vultee’s wave petered out in the channel; mine carried me all the way in, opposite the jetty and to shore for a win. There was a movie outfit there; a newsreel deal. I later saw the ride and had a close-up [made]; someone probably still has it.”
Tom used two boards that historic day – a first, in itself. He used the drilled-hole hollow board for paddling out and a more conventional board for riding waves in. Having a board strictly for paddling was unheard of up to this point. Up to this point, everyone had competed in paddling races on surfboards. Some
old-timers recalled of that day that it was the first time they had ever seen a
surfboard turned. Dragging either the left or the right leg in the water
accomplished this. His surfboard was 9-feet, 6-inches long, but the paddleboard
was 16 feet and weighed 120 pounds.
Blake wrote of his huge drilled-hole olo design paddleboard: “When I
appeared with it for the first time before 10,000 people gathered for a holiday
and to watch the races, it was regarded as silly. Handling this heavy board
alone, I got off to a poor start, the rest of the field gaining a thirty-yard
lead in the meantime. It really looked bad for the board and my reputation and
hundreds openly laughed. But a few minutes later it turned to applause because
the big board led the way to the finish of the 880-yard course by fully 100
“Later,” after the main event, “they held a 440 yard board race, paddling. I let Vultee lead for most of it, then breezed by him on the new semi-hollow paddle board. Received a statue of a swimmer and a cup. Still have the statuette of a swimmer; the cup is held by some club; don’t know who. It has Pete’s [Peterson] name on it for many later winnings.”
Next day, the
Press-Telegram announced: “LOS ANGELES
MAN, TOM BLAKE, WINNER OF EVENTS OF SURFBOARD CLUB.” The article continued: “The
aquatic powers of Tom Blake, bewhiskered athlete of the Los Angeles Athletic
Club, enabled him to win over an assemblage of swimmers in the meet held
yesterday afternoon in front of the Starr Bath House on the Long
Mar beach. Blake took two of the first places, winning easily the surfboard contest
and the paddling race. He was awarded silver trophies for his championship. Corona Del
“Several hundred people lined the beach to witness the contest held under the auspices of the Corona Del Mar Surfboard Association. The fact that Duke Kahanamoku, famous surfboard rider, could not be present did not detract from the excitement of the day.
“The Corona Del Mar Surfboard Club has been sponsored by Captain D.W. Sheffield, manager of the Starr Bathhouse. It is said to be the only organization of its kind on the
. Pacific Coast
“The results of the contest were as follows: Quarter-mile surfboard race, won by Tom Blake, L.A.A.C.; second, Gerard Vultee,
Corona Del Mar; third
Dennie Williams, Mar. Paddling race was won by Tom Blake; second,
Dennie Williams.” Corona
The first first-place PCSC trophy “was first won by Tom Blake in 1928 at
Mar,” confirmed Doc Ball in his classic collection of early California
Because the original trophy was not much to speak of, Blake had a nicely
embossed trophy cup made in order to pass on to succeeding winners.
He donated this trophy “to be the perpetual cup for the above mentioned event. Winners
since 1928 are inscribed on the back of it.” A good photograph of it appears in
Doc’s book. He added that “World War II precluded any possibilities of a
contest from 1941 through 1946.” California
The Pacific Coast Surfriding Championships became an annual event, dominated for 4-out-of-9 years by Preston “Pete” Peterson, who reigned as
recognized top surfer throughout the 1930s. Other early winners of the trophy
included Keller Watson (1929), Gardner Lippincott (1934), Lorrin “Whitey”Harrison (1939) and Cliff Tucker (1940). California
As for Tom Blake, although he met with competitive success on the U.S. Mainland, his eyes were mostly on the
“My dream was to introduce, or revive, this type of board in where surfboard racing and riding is
at its best,” he wrote in his 1935 edition of Hawaiian Surfboard, the
first book ever published solely about surfing. “This seems to have
Blake – originally a competitive swimmer – rose to prominence in the emerging world of surfing, following his restoration of traditional Hawaiian surfboards and his creative innovation of those designs into what became known as “the hollow board” – both surfboards and paddleboards. After restoring Chief Paki’s boards for the
Blake built some replicas for himself. In an article entitled, “Surf-riding –
The Royal and Ancient Sport,” published in a 1930 edition of The Pan Pacific,
he wrote: “I... wondered about these boards in the museum, wondered so much
that in 1926 I built a duplicate of them as an experiment, my object being to
find not a better board, but to find a faster board to use in the annual and
popular surfboard paddling races held in Southern California each summer.” Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum
During the 1920s, surfboards weighed between 75 and 150 pounds. Because of the length of the board and the wood it was made of, Paki’s olo was considerably heavier than the heaviest
board of the day, all of which were of solid wood construction. On a whim,
Blake took his 16 foot olo replica board and, in his own words, “drilled
it full of holes to lighten and dry it out, then plugged them up. Result:
accidental invention of the first hollow surf-board.”
Blake’s “holey” board ended up exactly 15 feet long, 19 inches wide and 4
inches thick. Because it was partially hollow, this board weighed only 120
This was the “hollow” board he used in the first Pacific Coast Surfing
Championships at Corona del Mar.
Following his win of the first Pacific Coast Surfing Championship at Corona del Mar in 1928, Blake took his hollow board back to Hawai‘i with him and took on the famous races held at the
annually. By this time, he had given up on filled-in drilled holes in favor of
a hollowed-out chamber approach. Ala Wai
“I introduced at
Waikiki a new
type of surfboard,” Blake wrote of his hollow board. It was, “new so the papers
said, and so the beach boys said, but in reality the design was taken from the
ancient Hawaiian type of board,” his 1926 replicas of them, and “also from the
English racing shell. It was called a ‘cigar board,’ because a newspaper
reporter thought it was shaped like a giant cigar.”
Of Blake’s hollow olo-inspired design, Dr. D’Eliscu of the
Honolulu Star-Bulletin wrote that “The
old Hawaiian surfboard has again made its appearance at Waikiki
beach modeled after the boards used in the old days. A practice trial was held
yesterday at the War Memorial Pool, and to the surprise of the officials, the
board took several seconds off the Hawaiian record for one hundred yards.”
Blake referred to this modern olo design as the racing model; in essence
a true paddleboard. He built his surf riding model surfboard, “Okohola,” a
month later, in December 1929.
The hollow paddleboards and surfboards Blake now made, “differed from the olo in that they were flat-decked, built of redwood, and hollow,” wrote Finney and
in Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings, many years later. “They were
excellent for paddling and also successful in the surf. Like the olo they were well adapted to the
glossy rollers at Houston Waikiki. A man could catch a
wave far out beyond the break, while the swell was still a gentle,
shore-rolling slope, and the board would slide easily along the wave, whether
it grew steep and broke, or barely rose and flattened out again.”
Duke Kahanamoku told his biographer that Blake’s first experiments had actually been initially “predicated on the belief that faster rides would be generated by heavier boards. But the turning problem became bigger with the size of the board; a prone surfer was compelled to drag one foot in the water on the inside of the turn, and this only contributed to loss of forward speed. If standing, he had to drag an arm over the side, and with the same result of diminishing momentum.
“Paddleboards are still with us today, and they are obviously here to stay,” Duke affirmed. “Some fantastic records have been established with them. And the sport of paddleboarding has naturally drawn some outstanding men to its ranks. It is a long list, a gallant list.”
Recapping its initial evolution, Blake said his first hollow board “was purely for racing, and I soon followed it with a riding board sixteen feet long. The new riding board model was a great success [‘Okohola’].” Blake added with some pride that “Duke Kahanamoku built his great 16-foot hollow redwood board along about the same time…”
Tom Blake set his first world’s record in paddling at Ala Wai in December 1929. It came after years of discipline and development of skill in racing under stress. He had swum in hundreds of races during the eight years previously and won the first official
surfing contest (the PCSC) just the year before. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin
from December 2, 1929, reported the event the day after: “BLAKE SETS 100-YARD
SURFBOARD PADDLE MARK. Big Crowd On Hand To Take In Sunday Races; Outrigger
Club Clean Sweeps In California
Wai Program of 18 Popular Events.” The Honolulu Star-Bulletin went on: Ala
“Demonstrating the possibilities of such a surfboard, Tom Blake of ‘cigar surfboard’ fame, yesterday paddled his pet water rider to a new 100-yard Hawaiian record (world’s record) at the Ala Wai where he negotiated the distance in 35 1-5 seconds, bettering the old mark by five full seconds in an exhibition witnessed by a crowd of 1000.
“The former record was 40 1-5 seconds made last year by Edric Cooke. More plumes are added to his [Blake’s] achievement when it is considered that he had to paddle through the water against a stiff wind and a tide.
“The ‘cigar surfboard’ just glided through the water without a splash and it was an uncanny sight. Blake was in excellent shape and worked his arms tirelessly to set the new world record.”
“The exhibition,” continued the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, “was the feature to a program of surfboard races staged by the recreation commission of the city. The events were put on to prepare those interested in surfboard paddling for the big races to be held during the Christmas holidays.
“The number of automobiles and the large crowds that gathered on both sides of the canal surprised the officials who helped revive the interest in an activity which typifies the islands…
“Sixteen paddle events were conducted in two hours and the timers, judges, clerks and other officials were kept running up and down the banks following the start then taking the finish…
“The Outrigger Canoe club, under the guidance of George (‘Dad’) Center, romped away with all the honors, as the other organizations did not believe that a contest of this kind would be successfully held.
“The appearance of the smoothness of the cigar-shaped board, and the quiet, reserved and impressive showing of its maker and paddler, TomBlake, attracted more than usual interest. Everybody wanted to use that type of board and the success and speed of this board showed itself in the number of races that were won by the individuals using it.
“Never before in any open races have so many boards been collected in one place. It required a private truck to haul all the surfboards from the Outrigger and Hui Nalu clubs to
Perhaps as significant as the wins that day, were resentments by some surfers and paddlers toward the hollow board and its creator. The Honolulu Star-Bulletin noted the resistance to this new type of watercraft: “The question was raised by the officials as to a standard board to be required in all future open competition. The feeling was against this proposal. The officials felt that no board designed to ride the surf could be barred from any of the races scheduled.
“The result of Sunday’s special events assures a number of new records on Christmas Day, when a special program will be held for surfboard followers…”
“This board was really graceful and beautiful to look at,” Tom wrote proudly of his carved chambered paddleboard, “and in performance was so good that officials of the Annual Surfboard Paddling Championship immediately had a set of nine of them built for use...”
Not everyone enthusiastically embraced hollow paddleboards and hollow surfboards. Later, when hollow boards became the standard at many beaches, solid boards were still preferred by some surfers. Doc Ball’s California Surfriders, featuring photographs taken primarily during the 1930s, shows a large number of solid boards in use.
Blake’s world record-breaking wins in both the 100-yard and half mile paddling events of the Hawaiian Surfboard Paddling Championships actually put him into disfavor with some Hawaiians. Resistance to his new designs hit a
in the December
1, 1929 race. There was an initial attempt to disqualify him, some saying that
he was not using a surfboard. Well, they were right on that account. Up until
the Pacific Coast Surfing Championship the year before, there had been no such
thing as a “paddleboard” specifically used for paddle racing. high point
Popular local Tommy Keakona, himself a champion of the 1928 Ala Wai races, refused to compete against Tom in protest over his use of the hollow paddleboard. Other “purist” Hawaiian surfers and distance paddlers demanded that only conventionally shaped and solid paddleboards be allowed to race. Other paddlers lobbied for the new design, claiming, rightfully, that it “marked the beginning of a new era in surfing and paddling.”
The hollow board’s detractors were not sufficient in number to keep Blake from competing, that day, nor the other paddlers using hollow boards. Referring to Blake’s board as “The Cigar Water Conqueror,” a Honolulu Star-Bulletin article written by Francois D’Eliscu documented Tom’s win with this headline: “3000 WATCH SURFERS RACE UPON ALA WAI CANAL. Every Record in History of Sport is Shattered; Cigar Board Comes Into Its Own.” D’Eliscu went on to write: “More than 3000 spectators crowded the banks of the Ala Wai this morning to witness the championship surfboard races in which every record in the history of the sport was shattered.
“Never before was such a contest so keenly fought. Remarkable times were made in the 10-event program.
“The cigar-shaped board was supreme. Each paddler showed speed, smoothness and wonderful control in handling the thin, light, fast-moving planks.
“Tom Blake, originator of the cigar shaped board, staged a surprise unknown to even his coaches when he appeared with a hollow carved cigar board. In the first event on the program, the half-mile men’s open, Blake won in 4 minutes 49 seconds, beating the old record by 2 minutes 13 seconds.
“T. Keakona, last year’s title holder, refused to enter the races, due to the type of board used by Blake.
“The feature event of the morning was the 100-yard open championship. Eight men from three of the best surfboard organizations started. Tom Blake, O.C.C.; Sam Kahanamoku, Hui Nalu; and Fred Vasco of the Queen’s Surfers, finished in the order named.
“The race was exciting from the gun. Tom with his powerful, easy, mechanical stroke and perfect balance found Sam a real competitor. The finish found Blake just a few inches ahead of the versatile swimmer. The time of 31 3-5 seconds for this race was better than last year’s 36 1-5 seconds.”
newspaper article, written by Andrew Mitsukado, also documented Blake’s wins: “EIGHT
RECORDS LOWERED IN MEET. Cigar-shaped
Board Is Big Hit, Tom Blake Is Big Star.” Mitsukado continued: “Eight old
records went whirling into oblivion and two new marks were established at the
sixth annual Hawaiian championship surf board paddling races, sponsored by the
Dawkins, Benny Co., yester morn in the Ala Wai before a monstrous crowd which
was kept on the well-known edge throughout the ten event program. Honolulu
“The newly devised cigar-shaped surfboards assisted tremendously in creating the new marks.
“Tom Blake of the Outrigger Canoe Club proved to be the big star of the meet, winning two individual events – the 100 yards men’s open and the half-mile open – and paddling anchor on the triumphant Outrigger team in the three-quarter mile club relay. He used a cigar-shaped board of his own invention and came through with flying colors.
“All of the races were hard fought and competition was keen, furnishing thrills after thrills for the spectators…”
“The half-mile record of seven minutes and two seconds was cut that year,” Tom wrote of the 1929 Annual Surfboard Paddling Championship, “to four minutes and forty-nine seconds and the hundred-yard dash was reduced from thirty-six and two-fifths seconds to thirty-one and three-fifths seconds. This made me the 1930 champion in the senior events and, incidentally, the new record holder. But as is true in yacht and other similar racing, I won because I had a superior board. This was the first cured or hollowed out [paddle] board to appear at
Waikiki. As the racing rules
allowed unrestricted size and design, I staked my chances on this hollow racer
whose points were proven for now all racing boards are hollow.”
But Blake’s win “was a ‘hollow’ victory,” underscored Tom’s friend Sam Reid, who also competed in the Championship. Playing on words in a surfing memoir published in a 1955 edition of the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Reid added that “Blake had hollowed out his 16-foot cigar board to a 60 pound weight, compared with an average 100 to 125 pounds weight of the other 9 boards in the 100.”
lifeguard Wally Burton told a little bit about
what was behind the resentment, adding his own take on it. “He was very innovative.
Yeah, he had a good, active mind and… when he was over in the Santa
there, he was winning everything. You know, the Duke was the all-time great
over there, at that time. And he [Tom] went over there and he took everything
away from the Duke. As a matter of fact, they didn’t like Tom too well over in
the Islands [after his competitive wins],
because Duke was the hero.”
“Reverberations of the ‘hollow board’ tiff were heard from one end of the Ala Wai to the other,” recalled Sam Reid around 1955, “and echoes can still be heard at Waikiki even today – 25 years later. At a meeting of the three (surfing) clubs, Outrigger, Hui Nalu and Queens, held immediately after the disputed races… it was decided that… there would be no limit whatever on (the design) of paddleboards.” It is a sad fact that much resentment over his lightweight designs remained after Tom’s Ala Wai wins. Because of the 1929/1930 Ala Wai controversies, Tom only entered the race one more time, the following year. Impressively, Tom’s half-mile record of 4:49:00 stood until 1955. It was broken by George Downing, who covered the course in 4:36:00 on a 20-foot hollow balsa board. Blake’s board had been a 16-foot hollow redwood. Other long-standing records held by Tom include the world’s record for the 1/2 mile open and 100 yard dash in paddleboard racing. They were held for twenty-five years.
When Tom competed in the Ala Wai contest in early 1931, the Honolulu Star-Bulletin published word of his participation, some of the history of the race and a little about surfing’s history in Hawai’i: “Announce List of Officials to Handle 1931 Surfboard Races,” headlined the article written by Francois D’Eliscu. “Any Type of Board Can Be Used This Year; Races Will Be Held at the
Wai on January 4; New Kind of Board Will Be Introduced. Ala
“The seventh annual surfboard paddling Hawaiian championships to be held Sunday morning, January 4, 1931, on the Ala Wai canal, promises to be the most interesting event ever held for the paddlers of
All of the titleholders of last year are entered and the ruling permitting any
kind of board in the various races means new records...
“Tom Blake, who startled the community with his cigar-shaped hollow board and smashed all existing records, is reported to have another new type board that is faster and lighter than the one he won with so easily last year.”
Under the subheading of “‘Sport of Kings,’” D’Eliscu continued: “Surfboard racing in
Hawaii is known as the ‘sport
of kings’ on account of its association with the history and tradition of
when the chiefs competed on large heavy boards. Hawaii
“Many of these relics are on exhibition in the museum and it is here where Tom Blake spent many an hour studying the shape, weights and speed of the boards, which prompted him to build his cigar-shaped board…
“Committees and officials have been selected to conduct the meet. The group in charge of the events are: Honorary chairman, ‘Dad’ Center; sponsors, C.G. Benny and H.L. Reppeto; Gay Harris of the Outrigger Canoe Club; Charles Amalu from Queen Surfers, and David Kahanamoku, representing the Hui Nalu swimming club.
“The officials in charge of the meet are as follows: Referee Duke P. Kahanamoku; clerk of course, David Kahanamoku; starter, G.D. Crozier; timers,
A.H. Myhre, R.N.
Slaght, R.J. Thomas and William Hollinger. Benny,
“Judges, Dr. Francois D’Eliscu, T.C. Gibson, Henry Sheldon and V. Ligda; recorder, H.L. Reppeto, and Gay Harris will be in charge of the equipment…
“Cecil Benny, who has been responsible for the continuation of the surfboard races and competitions, deserves a great deal of public commendation for his interest in keeping the Hawaiian sport alive.”
Blake’s superior designs were not the only factor in his success. He was also a tremendous swimmer, paddler and overall competitor. Two decades later, his protégé Tommy Zahn paddled the Ala Wai, for practice, with Hot Curl surfer Wally Froiseth’s protégé George Downing. At first he thought his watch was off because he could not achieve Blake’s times on an evolved paddleboard with superior training.
During this period, Tom was coming out with a new board every year. He was driven to refine his designs, and by the end of the 1930s, both his surfboards and paddleboards were very different from what he had started out with a decade before. As far as the controversies at Ala Wai were concerned, Tom learned that good intentions do not always breed good feelings. Because of his competitive wins, he later said that he became a version of “The Ugly American.” Specifically, Tom recalled, “I discovered too late that beating the locals at their own game, in front of their families, could sour relations with my Hawaiian friends.”
When he had first come to
, he was accepted at the beach,
welcomed by the Kahanamoku’s and the beach boys, and “treated… like a king.” Even
so, he couldn’t shake the fact that he was an outsider and consequently “… they
paid no attention to you,” recalled Tom. “You roamed around there, nobody knew
you, and it’s a wonderful way to live, when you keep a low profile. Like,
nobody’s shootin’ at you, you know? That went on for years, and it’s just like,
I got interested in their sports, surfing and paddling, and managed to build a
little better board than they had, and beat them in their contests. And then
they began to look at you. There’s something we don’t like, and that was the
end of the real good days.” Hawai’i
It may have been the end of the “real good days” for Tom in the
Islands, but he still had many good Hawaiian
days to come. He would continue his love affair with the Hawaiian
Islands – specifically O’ahu – for another 25 years.
Hollow Board Evolution
Despite the bad feelings surrounding Tom Blake’s wins at the Hawaiian Surfboard Championships 1929-31, other surfboard shapers began experimenting with the chambered hollow board concept. “Imagination of design,” Sam Reid remembered, “ran riot.”
Duke Kahanamoku gave Tom high credit and respect for his contributions. “Blond Tom Blake... was a haole who accepted the challenge,” related Duke to his biographer Joseph Brennan in their 1968 book World of Surfing, “and proved to be one of the finest board men to walk the beach. Daring and imaginative he always was. He, like myself, was driven with the urge to experiment.” Addressing Blake’s hollow racing paddleboard, Duke acknowledged that, “He was the one who first built and introduced the paddleboard – a big hollow surfing craft that was simple to paddle and picked up waves easily but was difficult to turn. It had straight rails, a semi-pointed tail, and laminated wood for the deck. For its purpose it was tops.”
Duke’s shaping of a hollow made Tom unabashedly proud. He later wrote: “Duke Kahanamoku built his great 16-foot hollow redwood board along about the same time. He is an excellent craftsman and shapes the lines and balance of his boards with the eye; he detects its irregularities by touch of the hand.
“I feel, however,” Blake added in deference to the Father of Modern Surfing, “that Duke has some appreciation of the old museum boards and from his wide experience in surfriding and his constructive turn of mind would have eventually duplicated them, regardless of precedent.”
Duke’s Blake-inspired design, shaped around 1930, was a 16 footer, made of koa wood, weighed 114 pounds, and was designed after the ancient Hawaiian olo board, as Blake’s had been. “With his rare expertise and outstanding strength,” Joseph Brennan wrote, “Duke handled it well in booming surfs. He used to defend his giant board and kid fellow surfers with, ‘Don’t sweat the small stuff. Reason? Because it’s small stuff.’”
After Tom’s win at the Ala Wai, some surfboard and paddleboard builders who had not gone hollow began “using alternating strips of laminated pine or redwood, instead of one or several planks of the same wood,” historians Finney and Houston noted, obviously influenced by Blake’s direction to lessen the weight. “These striped boards combined the strength of pine with the light weight of redwood and were believed to be more functional as well as more attractive. About this time lightweight balsa boards were… tried, but were dismissed as too light and fragile for practical use.”
The 10 foot redwood plank that Duke and the early Waikiki surfers had ridden since shortly after the beginning of the century had been “in vogue until 1924,” Duke recalled, “when Lorrin Thurston, one of Hawaii’s most enthusiastic surf riders, appeared with a twelve-foot board. To Thurston also goes the credit of introducing the balsa wood board in 1926. It was really a revival of the wili wili boards used by the old Hawaiian chiefs except for design. The ten to twelve-foot boards were used exclusively until 1929 when I built [after Tom Blake] a successful sixteen-foot board, which is handled quite the same as the old Hawaiian boards, and I feel sure will put surf riding on much the same scale as it was before the white man came.”
In the progression of the hollow boards’ evolution, Step One (1928) had been the almost accidental use of drilled holes filled in to make tiny air pockets. Step Two (1929) saw the implementation of full hollow chambers. Step Three came in 1932 with Blake’s use of the transversely braced hollow hull. By using ribs for strength, much as in an airplane wing, Tom brought the weight of the hollow boards down even further. It is not definitively known for sure, but it is probable that Tom’s friendship with aviator Gerard Vultee influenced him in this further development of the hollow board. At any rate, the result of this design was a strong 40-to-70 pound board, depending on length.
A final refinement to the Blake hollow board would not occur until the end of the decade, when the board rails began to be rounded. Initially, Tom’s hollows were built with 90-degree flat-sided rails. Whitewater would catch these and easily knock a board right out from under a rider, sending him or her sideways. With the rounded rail, which was an original component to the traditional Hawaiian boards, water could move over and under the board with much less resistance.
After 1932, the Blake hollow surfboard and paddleboard spread worldwide – from as far away as
and Brazil and even Hong Kong. Although it would be years after Blake’s death
that true dynamic hollow surfboards could outperform against solid wooden
boards and even foam and fiberglass boards, it did not take long for the hollow
paddleboard to become an essential rescue device in oceans, rivers, and lakes. As
evidence of this, in the later half of the 1930s, the hollow paddle rescue
board was adopted by the Pacific Coast Lifesaving Corps and used by the
American Red Cross National Aquatic Schools for instruction. Today, the rescue
paddleboard can be found on almost any ocean beach protected by lifeguards.
As for the hollow surfboard, it is significant to note that today, many of the
more advanced epoxy boards are of hollow construction. While using technology
undreamed of by Blake, they are nevertheless take-offs on his original hollow
 Gault-Williams, Malcolm. LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 1: 2500 B.C. to 1910 A.D. ©2005, pp. 17 and 39-41. See also Finney, Ben and Houston, James D. Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport, ©1996, p. 21.
 Gault-Williams, 2005, pp. 52-54.
 Gault-Williams, 2005, pp. 174-177.
 Gault-Williams, 2005, pp. 226-241.
 Gault-Williams, Malcolm. LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 2: Early 20th Century Surfing and Tom Blake, ©2007. First two chapters.
 The Encyclopedia of World History, Sixth Edition, ©2001, p. 672.
 The Encyclopedia of World History, 2001, p. 672.
 The Encyclopedia of World History, 2001, p. 672.
 Some duplication of material in this chapter with Gault-Williams, LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 2: Early 20th Century Surfing and Tom Blake, ©2007. The greatest detail exists in Volume 2, but some new insights have been gained since its printing and are included here both for perspective into the 1930s and additional documentation of the first two decades of the 1900s.
 Surfing Subcultures, “Origins and Development of Pacific Seaboard Surfing,” chapter 3, p. 34.
 Surfing Subcultures, p. 34.
 Cater, Geoff. Pods For Primates, http://www.surfresearch.com.au
 Young, 1983, 1987, pp. 35-36.
 Pods For Primates citing Maxwell, p. 235 and Greg McDonagh in Pollard, p. 55.
1965, p. 4. Bloomfield
1965, p. 10. Bloomfield
 Pods For Primates citing Maxwell, pp. 90, 202-204.
 Pods For Primates, http://www.surfresearch.com.au
Australia Through American
Eyes,” The Red Funnel, ,
June 1, 1908, p. 468. Quoted in Thoms,
p. 14. Dunedin
 Noble, Valerie. Hawaii Prophet, 1980, pp. 57-58. See also Mid-Pacific Magazine, January 1911, “Skiing in
,” by Percy Hunter. It
may be that Hunter was the one that noted the presence of boards in Australia
in 1910, not Ford. Australia
 Pods for Primates, citing Maxwell, p. 235.
 Warshaw, 1997, p.18.
 Hall, Sandra Kimberly. “Duke Down Uner,” Aloha Magazine, Volume 19, Number 11, November 1994, p. 57.
 Daily Telegraph, January 27, 1912, p. 21. Quotes in Pods For Primates.
 Pods for Primates citing Maxwell, p. 235 and Harris, pp. 53-54.
 Pods for Primates citing
p. 8. Harvey
 Pods for Primates. Geoff Cater mentions this claim as tenuous, but plausible. He cites
p. 8. Harvey
 Pods for Primates quoting Thomas, p. 30.
 Harris, p. 55.
 Wells, Lana. Sunny Memories – Australians at the
, ©1982, pages
157-158. 1982. Greenhouse Publications Pty Ltd., Seaside 3126. Hardcover,
184 pages, black and white photographs, Chronology of Events. Geoff Cater wrote: “Expansive overview of Australian beach culture and history,
starting with James Cook’s description of ‘indians’ (aborigines) bathing in
1776. Surfcraft in Chapter 12. ‘Riding the Waves’ is interesting; particularly the sections
on Isabel Letham (sic) page 156, Grace Smith Wootton (1915 Victorian surfer)
page 157 and C.J. (‘Snow’) McAllister page 159; but does not progress much past
1970. The Chronology is useful, but note
the 1964 World Contest at Manly is listed as 1960. Photographic Highlights: “Andrew ‘Boy’
Charlton and Snow McAllister, both wearing V shorts over their bathing suits,
with their boards at Manly, 1926” pages 88-89, ‘St Kilda
Life Saving Club Member with a surfboard ... Manly’ circa 1929, page 151,
‘Grace Wootton Smith’ page 157. See image of Grace Smith Wooton and
Win Harrison, 385 - 387
Bridge Road, Richmond, Victoria ,
circa 1916, Wells page 157.” Point
 Harris, Reg. S. Heroes of the Surf – The History of Manly Life Saving Club 1911-1961, ©1961, p. 55. Published by Manly Life Saving Club, NSW. Printed by Publicity Press Ltd. Hard cover, 100 pages, 132 black and white photographs, extensive membership/results lists. Geoff Cater writes of this resource: “Well written, extensively researched and comprehensive account of the Manly Club, with background dating back to 1880, this book is also a photograghic feast. Special mention: Manly’s Top Boardmen 1939-40, page Fifty-four -reproduced on Pods for Primates index page as Photograph #1. ‘The Birth of the Board’ pages Fifty-two to Fitfty-six. ‘Surfboats’ pages Forty-three to Forty-nine. Queenscliffe ‘Bombora’ page Ninety. Now a significant historical record.”
 Brawley, Sean. Vigilant and Victorious - A Community History of the Collaroy Surf Life Saving Club 1911 – 1995, ©1995, pages 33-34. Collaroy Surf Life Saving Club Inc.,
PO Box 18
2097. Cllaroy Beach .
Hard cover, 410 pages, black and white photographs, Notes, Office Bearers,
Bronze Medallions, Subject Index, Name Index. Geoff Cater wrote: “Highly detailed account of one of Australia ’s first Surf Life Saving clubs and the
growth of its community. Although
boardriding plays only a small part of such an expansive work, the significant
details recorded here are not available from any other source.” Sydney
 Maxwell, C. Bede. Surf : Australians Against the Sea, ©1949, page 237. Angus and Robertson,
. Hard cover,
302 pages, 22 black and white plates. Geoff Cater wrote: “Beautifully written
and expertly researched, this book is ‘a
wave-to-wave description of surf lifesaving from its inception’ (to 1949), Adrian Curlewis, in the Foreward. An essential
resource for this period, much of the text has been reproduced in subsequent
works. Surfcaft are detailed in Chapter Three, Mountaineering
in Boats, and Chapter Seven, Surfboards
and Surf Skis. Special
mention: The evolution of the surfboard, from old style ‘solid’ to
modern ‘hollow’. Maroubra board-men Bruce Devlin, Frank Adler, and Vince
 Harvey, Richard. A Surfing History of
Queensland - Gold Coast
- The Sunshine Coast
- , ©1983, p. 5. Olympic
Productions and Publications Pty Ltd, Gold Coast Byron
Bay . 1983, Soft Cover,
pages, color photographs, black and white photographs, numerous colour/two tone
advertisements. Geoff Cater wrote: “A rich store of rare and interesting photographs accompanied
by an informative but disjointed text. A case of poor editing, the text jumps
across time and geography without any recourse to headings or chapters, except
for The Islands (Stradbroke)
by Greg Curtis, page 78. Queensland
 Thoms, Albie, ©2000,
4567. Hard cover, extensive black and white as well as color photographs,
posters, flyers, record sleeves, documents, filmography; 192 pages. Geoff Cater
wrote: “This is an outstanding book, exhibiting extensive personal knowledge,
rigorous research and a committed love of the subject. Even if the core of the
book (the actual film references) was omitted, the additional notes on surfing
history, surfboard design, music, magazines, fashion and culture (both surf
culture and general observations) themselves would be a significant
achievement. An essential text.” Noosa
 Maxwell, page 238.
 Brawley, page 57.
 Wells, page 152.
 Galton, Barry. Gladiators of the Surf: The Australian Surf Life Saving Championships – A History, ©1984, page 29. Published by AH & AW Read Pty Ltd.,
2 Aquatic Drive, NSW 2086. Soft
cover, 122 black and white photographs, Australian Championships Results,
Index. Geoff Carter wrote: “A detailed work true to its subtitle, mostly
concentrating on contest results, with some background information where
appropriate. Surfboats feature throughout the book, with occasional surfskis
and boards. Photographic highlights include: old and modern surfski (‘Snow’
McAllister and Michael Pietre), page 8; Australian S.L.S.A. team at Outrigger
Canoe Club, Honolulu, 1939, p. 64; Hollow boards at North Bondi, 1947, page 74;
Duke Kahanamoku at Torquay, 1956, page 108; US-Hawaiian team members (with
paddleboards), Torquay, 1956, page 112 (incorrectly captioned ‘first of the
malibus’).” Frenchs Forest
 Galton, 1984, page 29.
 Brawley, (1995), page 48.
 Harris, pages 55-56.
 Wells, p. 159. Snowy McAlister quoted.
 Galton, p. 35.
 Wells, p. 159. Snowy McAlister quoted.
 Galton, p. 35.
 Wells, pp. 159-160.
AND England ? South Africa
 Brawley, 1996, p. 55, Reference: L. V. Hind to A.Curlewis, Curlewis Papers, SLSA Archives.
 Maxwell, 1949, p. 239.
, p. 8. Harvey
 Wells, p. 153. See also Snow McAlister, Wells pages 159-160 and Sprint Walker, “Solid Wood Boards and Victorian Surfing,” Tracks Magazine circa 1972. Reprinted circa 1973 in The Best of Tracks, page 191.
 Brawley, 1995, pp. 95-96.
, p. 8. Harvey
 Brawley, 1995, p. 91-95.
 http://www.surfresearch.com.au/1920_Solid_Wood.html - #22 : SMH, 21 September 1931.
 Based on the movements of George Freeth, “The Father of California Surfing.”
Press, April 7, 1910. Long Beach
 Daily Telegram, September 4, 1911.
Press, February 26, 1921. Long Beach
Press, May 3, 1921. Long Beach
 Daily Telegram, August 15, 1921.
 Press-Telegram, December 31, 1926.
 Press-Telegram, March 18, 1927.
Press, “Beacon Lights at Balboa Are Set,” December 26, 1923. Long Beach
Times, June 15,
1925. The Long Beach Press-Telegram
of the same date reported that Duke rescued 6, not 8. Duke Kahanamoku, Antar
Derega, captain of the Newport lifeguards; Charles Plummer, lifeguard; T.W.
Sheffield, captain of the Corona Del Mar Swimming Club; Gerard Vultee, William
Herwig and Owen Hale, were all those who went to the rescue. Los Angeles
 Gault-Williams. LEGENDARY SURFERS Volume 2: Early 20th Century Surfing and Tom Blake, ©2007.
 Ball, John “Doc.”
Surfriders, 1946. California
 Press-Telegram, July 16, 1928.
 The Santa Ana Daily Register, July 31, 1928. See Lueras, Leonard. Surfing, The Ultimate Pleasure, ©1984, designed by Fred Bechlen. Workman Publishing,
p. 104. New
 Press-Telegram, August 5, 1928.
 Lueras, 1984, p. 83. See Blake’s notations. Notation has it at “
 Blake, Tom. Notes for Tommy Zahn, November 14, 1972,
. Midland, California
 Blake, Tom. Notes for Tommy Zahn, November 14, 1972,
. Midland, California
 Lueras, 1984, p. 82.
 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 59.
 Blake, Tom. Notes for Tommy Zahn, November 14, 1972,
. Midland, California
 Press-Telegram, August 6, 1928.
 Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, p. 103.
on draft of Doc Ball, Early Gary
Surf Photog, May 1998. California
 Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, p. 103.
 Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, p. 103.
 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 59.
 Gault-Williams, 2007.
 Blake, Thomas E. “Surf-riding - The Royal and Ancient Sport,” The Pan Pacific, 1930. See also Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 59. Blake wrote of his replica (with drilled holes): “This surfboard was sixteen feet long and weighed 120 pounds.” Blake, Thomas E., “Surf-riding - The Royal and Ancient Sport,” The Pan Pacific, 1930.
 Lueras, 1984, p. 82. Tom Blake quoted. See photo with annotations in Blake’s handwriting on p. 83.
 Lynch, Gault-Williams, et. al. TOM BLAKE: Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, ©2001.
 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 51.
 Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 1929, article by Dr. D’Eliscu, quoted in Blake, 1935, p. 59.
 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 59. It was incorrectly spelled in Blake’s book. Pictures of the board clearly have the name “Okohola” written on the board’s deck. “Okohola,” translated, means whaling or a variety of sweet potato.
 Finney and
Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings, ©1966, p. 74. Houston
 Kahanamoku, ©1966, p. 39. In the original wording in the book, biographer Brennan seems to have confused what one did standing vs. prone. Prone, one dragged the arm; standing, the leg was the drag and direction changer.
 Blake, 1935, 1983, pp. 51-52.
Star-Bulletin, December 2, 1929. Honolulu
Star-Bulletin, December 2, 1929. Honolulu
Star-Bulletin, December 2, 1929. Honolulu
 Blake, 1935, 1983, pp. 51-52. See also Lueras, p. 82.
Star-Bulletin, January 1, 1930. Article written by Francois D’Eliscu. T. Keakona’s name incorrectly spelled as “Kiakona.” Honolulu
 Lueras, 1984, p. 82. Quotations are presumably Sam Reid’s.
Star-Bulletin, January 1, 1930. T. Keakona incorrectly spelled as “Kiakona.”
See also Lynch, Gary, “Thomas Edward Blake: Beyond The Horizon,” May 20
newspaper, January 2, 1930, by Andrew Mitsukado. Honolulu
 Blake, 1935, 1983, pp. 51-52. See also Lueras, p. 82.
 Lueras, 1984, p. 82. Honolulu Star-Bulletin from 1955, with Sam Reid’s quotations.
with Wally Burton, May 10, 2000. Gary
 Lueras, 1984, p. 82. Sam Reid quoted. Parentheses probably Lueras’.
exhibit, 2/94 and Young, p. 49. Santa
Monica Heritage Museum
 Blake, Tom. Letter to Tommy Zahn, October 12 & 14, 1972, postmarked from
. Tommy’s notation to
this achievement. Midland, California
 Lynch, Gault-Williams, et. al. TOM BLAKE: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, ©2001.
Star-Bulletin, “Announce List of Officials to Handle 1931 Surfboard Races,”
by Francois D’Eliscu, January 1, 1931. Honolulu
Star-Bulletin, “Announce List of Officials to Handle 1931 Surfboard Races,”
by Francois D’Eliscu, January 1, 1931. Honolulu
Interview with Tommy Zahn. Date not specified. Gary
Edward Blake: Beyond The Horizon,” May 20, 1989. Gary
with Thomas Edward Blake, April 16, 1989, Gary . Washburn, Wisconsin
 Lueras, p. 82. Sam Reid quoted.
 Kahanamoku, Duke with Brennan, Joe. World of Surfing, ©1968,
, NY, p. 38. “Haole” is
a Hawaiian term for a white person. Grosset & Dunlap, New York
 Blake, 1935, 1983, pp. 51-52.
 See Gault-Williams, 2005, “Ancient Hawaiian Surfboards” chapter for a detailed description of the differences between the olo, kiko’o, alaia, and kioe (paipo) boards.
 Brennan, 1994, p. 23.
 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 74.
 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 51. Duke indicated 1929, but it was most likely 1930. A Duke olo currently hangs at Duke’s Canoe Club in
but it is a later model than his 1930 olo.
Edward Blake: Beyond The Horizon,” May 20, 1989. Gary
 Lynch, Gault-Williams, et. al. TOM BLAKE: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, ©2001.
Edward Blake: Beyond The Horizon,” May 20, 1989. Gary