Surfing from an Historical and Cultural View, part of the SHACC Collection, by Malcolm Gault-Williams
We grew up with Whitey regularly dumping his fresh caught lobster on my mom's kitchen floor and having to chase them from behind the washing machine. My parents were old friends from high school with Earl and Rosie Clark (nee Harrison) and we used to vacation together. I have a signed copy of "Let's go, Let's go!" from Rosie's first book signing. I recall the barn on his Dana Point property had dozens of surfboards for us to choose when we first learned to surf at Doheny Beach, with Rosie steadying us.
Lorrin taught my whole family to surf....we all had his boards...my mom with a gold lamae top (custom). My dad dove for abs with Lorrin and my uncle joined his canoe team in the Molokai...1960. His daughters got sucked into baby sitting us a few times. I remember going out with him on his hand hewed eucalytus outrigger. He made my dad a three seat canoe out of fiberglass and foam...probably the first one ever made like that. Remember abalone pounding and abalone chowder made by Pops at Doheney. Now with Hui Nalu canoe club..we have a race for Lorrin's nephew every year..Kala Kukea. Still feel connected. With Lorrin on the water....every day was the best day ever Let's go.
Mahalo for your comment!