
"In the book, Land of the Golden River, Vol. 1, published in 1975, local author Lewis Phillip Hall (1907-1980), wrote of his personal experiences surfing Wrightsville Beach. 'In the early twenties (1920's), before the jetties were constructed, a sand bar ran the entire length of the beach. We swam out to the combers (breakers) where (it was) making up [probably: "macking up"]. At times there would be ten or fifteen youths in a crowd. It was a beautiful sight, ten surfers riding the cresting wave a long time... I'll have to admit, however, that we did not ride our boards standing erect, but lying halfway the board.'"
Hello Malcolm,
ReplyDeleteYour blog keeps going off!
I check it out frequently.
Here goes a tip you might enjoy:
"Bombora - The Story of Australian Surfing."
Check that out at Surf4ever:
http://surf4ever.wordpress.com/
All the best to you,
Gustavo
Surf4ever - Brazil