Sunday, February 15, 2009

Wrightsville, N.C., 1912

We continue to spotlight some of the gems in Skipper Funderburg's "Surfing on the Cape Fear Coast." Here are two Wrightsville postcards, the bottom one hand-dated as July 12, 1912. A little hard to see in this view, but in the lower postcard, toward the viewer's bottom left, you will see a kid with a Hawaiian-style paipo (bodyboard):

"In the book, Land of the Golden River, Vol. 1, published in 1975, local author Lewis Phillip Hall (1907-1980), wrote of his personal experiences surfing Wrightsville Beach. 'In the early twenties (1920's), before the jetties were constructed, a sand bar ran the entire length of the beach. We swam out to the combers (breakers) where (it was) making up [probably: "macking up"]. At times there would be ten or fifteen youths in a crowd. It was a beautiful sight, ten surfers riding the cresting wave a long time... I'll have to admit, however, that we did not ride our boards standing erect, but lying halfway the board.'"

1 comment:

  1. Hello Malcolm,
    Your blog keeps going off!
    I check it out frequently.
    Here goes a tip you might enjoy:
    "Bombora - The Story of Australian Surfing."
    Check that out at Surf4ever:

    All the best to you,

    Surf4ever - Brazil


Mahalo for your comment!