Legendary Surfers

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Brian Wilson's "Smile"

Brian Wilson and friends perform music from "Smile" for a two-hour "Creators At Carnegie" special:

NPR : Brian Wilson's 'Smile'

Dolphins Protect Humans

The old tale of dolphins protecting swimmers from sharks is documented in a recent incident in New Zealand:

Yahoo! News - Great Animal Story...

Don Oakey Leaves Us

(image: Imperial Beach Lifeguard Station, circa mid-1950's)

From Jane at the California Surf Museum, via Joe Tabler:

"We lost a huge pioneer in San Diego surfing history - Don Okey - the other day. He was one of the first to surf WindanSea, the designer/architect of the shack, head chef of the magnificent luaus there, made foam boards in '51 for Ed Cudahy, patented a board-shaping machine in '65 and produced hundreds of boards with it, was a life-long cohort of Woody Brown's, was an inventor, entrepeneur and raconteur extraordinaire. And a damn good surfer..."

Don Oakey was also one of the Slough Riders that rode with Legendary Surfer Dempsey Holder and others at Imperial Beach. To read about Don and the Tijuana Slough Riders, go to:

Dempsey, Don Oakey and the Rest of the Sloughs Crew

The Enforcer Pulls Out...

As many of you know by now, Ray Kunze -- "The Malibu Enforcer" -- passed on early this month.

Here's the write-up by Scott Hadley of the SANTA BARBARA NEWS-PRESS:

Ray Kunze

(Thanks to Joe Tabler for the coconut telegraph)


Also, here's an email from Tom Morey to Kemp Aaberg after Kemp told him about Ray's pull out:

"Good God, how bitchin'! What a classic way to go!! No one could write a better script than that!. He and Misto George were always, to each other, the main thing in surfing.

"I'm taking ever more hits in this 70th year, as death, like the mean o puddy tat, is cweepen up on all of us. Ray was like 72 or 73 !

"What is the next breaking section going to bring?

"It's one thing to be fighting through the soup, trying to get back around the white water until, you're fully functional in the green again. But eventually you know you're already too far down the line for there to ever be a decent green water opportunity.

"Picture this. You and I are surfing Malibu. Dora's out there, Kuntz, Misto, Cleary, Franny, Bobby Patterson, Munoz and Dewey. There we are out at the point or scattered along inside riding little sections, catching wave after wave and loving life. Just a dozen of us with all of Malibu to ourselves, the surf pumpin' 4-8'.

"You catch a great one at the flag pole line up, climb, arch, drop, crank big cutbacks, and nose ride. Tubesteak, and Bags, even Fisher on the beach playing chess with Hugo, they all stop, look up and take notice.

"But then, as you come into that long shore break where the wave is ever faster breaking yet junky, the lack of shape no longer supports any of your best moves. Instead, it has you pinned to the board, in a stupid crouch. You kick you ass that again you've allowed yourself to get lulled into that last 30 yards where it's too sloppy to nose ride, too shallow to cut back.

"So you pull out!

"Butch does an El Drinko pull out. Bobby has a heart attack in the middle of a big deal. Dewey's does his own brand of exit. Hasley, drives into a tree. Ray, picks up the phone, calls Misto and then drops dead! Whatever, kick out, standing island... the soul does SOMETHING so that it's OUT, and paddling back toward the Primal Point for more bitchin' waves!"


(Courtesy of Y and thanks to Bob Feigel for another coconut telegraph)

Surfing Heritage Foundation

As some of you may know, LEGENDARY SURFERS has strong connections with Dick Metz and the SURFING HERITAGE FOUNDATION. In fact, the LS collection will -- at some point in the future -- be folded into the archives and net-available resources at SHF.

Here's the latest news from the Surfing Heritage Foundation:



It’s true, the exterior of our new facility is done and so is the interior office space! We should be occupying the front portion of the building sometime in November, but we’re still working on how to best display our collection of 150+ surfboards and historic items.

In October, we were once again fortunate enough to involved with the Moonshine Festival, a two-day, multi-media surfing “Woodstock” of sorts (last year under 400 people were able to attend, this year over 3000 showed up on Saturday alone). Thanks to the Malloys, Jack Johnson, Donovan Frankenreiter, The Moonshine Conspiracy, etc., etc., and Will Pennartz of The Surf Gallery.

A week later we participated in Corona del Mar’s Centennial Celebration, displaying six boards, historical photos, and information relevant to the heritage of surfing in that local.

We loaned the Reyn Spooner clothing company six surfboards from our collection for their recent display at the Magic clothing show in Las Vegas.

Randy Hild and the Roxy/Quiksilver crew threw a party during the U.S. Open of Surfing at the Women Who Surf Exhibit. About a dozen of their team riders (including current ratings leader Sofia Mulanovich) made it down to hang out and sign posters.

“Riding Giants” premiered at the Lido Theater in Newport on July 8th. On display were boards from our collection, including the very last tow-in board that Gerry Lopez shaped for Laird Hamilton.

We’re collaborating with Drew Kampion for an upcoming Surfer’s Path article focusing on the George Greenough retrospective currently on view at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. The article also contains material not seen in the exhibit as well as some photos sent by George from “Dolphin Glide”.

We’ve teamed with Chuck Menzel of Wetsand.com to produce George Greenough, beyond surfing… and Women Who Surf exhibits on the web. We’ll let you know when they launch.

Gerry Lopez is now one of our Advisory Directors and we’ve “hired” our own staff photographer, Sharon Marshall.

4 new boards have been added to our collection. A vintage Jeff Hakman owned Plastic Fantastic board, the first foam board shaped by Dale Velzy; a solid balsawood gun; and a beautiful hollow wooden, Gordon Woods model from Australia.

We’ve added a new section to our website entitled THANK YOUS with a link at the bottom of the EVENTS SECTION. Here’s a quick list: Jamie Brisick and Harper Collins, Ed Clapp, Tim Coffman, Michael Dweck, James Flagella, Andrea Gabbard, Tony Garcia, Kelsyus, Sandra Kimberley, Will Lucas, Tim McCullough and Reyn Spooner, Jim Oneil, Fred Reiss, Thomas and Carrie Rolfes, Jeff Sangster and Specialized Properties, Michael Scully, Gary G. Stellern, Herb Torrens, and Cary Weiss. Log onto our website for complete descriptions.

We are getting ready to launch our Founding Partners Campaign — details soon!

The next Winter Update will be from our new location. Stay tuned…



Barry K Haun