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posted by Malcolm Gault-Williams at
Sunday, August 15, 2004
Well as I would expect! All Hall of Fame(s)"Pander" But they eventually do get around to the "Induction" of those who "Belong" on the list! and Jack Haley belonged on there long before these "Living professionals"... I first saw him ride in 1958,at the santa ana river jetty's... Till then I had never seen anybody ride a headhigh wave so smoothly,picking out the absolutely perfect line in which to make the wave,and show a style and "Finess" which after seeing that ride,(and several other waves)convinced my 11 year old self that I realy wanted to (surf) do that! Good on 'Captain Jack!' May he rest in peace! and his induction was WaaaaaY past due! Dragger Dave!
Yes, dagger, you are so right. I love the ocean, especially Paddleboard Cove in LA County. I can't surf, but I love the Cove.
Mahalo for your comment!
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