LEGENDARY SURFERS
Legendary Surfers

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Dale Velzy (1927-2005)

Aloha and Welcome to this LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on legendary surfer and shaper Dale Velzy.

After several years lapse, this chapter -- written in 2004, just before Velzy's passing -- is once again posted for public viewing, reading and downloading.

Aloha,

Malcolm Gault-Williams
September 2019


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LEGENDARY SURFERS Facebook Group

Reader and Viewer Involvement in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection takes place at our Facebook Goup. Click on the icon below to go there:



LEGENDARY SURFERS GROUP GUIDELINES 🌿🌊🌿🏄‍♂️🏄‍♀️
 LEGENDARY SURFERS
Famous. Well known. Surfing Royalty. Pioneers. Innovators. Influential Shapers. Surf journalists. Surf photographers & filmmakers. Established surf artists. Past and Current surf pros. Outstanding Soul Surfers. Local Legends. Up and Coming Legends in the Making.
 ALL POSTS
Is it Legendary or historical
Relevant to classic surf culture
Photos and videos must be surf-related.
Anything not related to surfing will be removed.
 PHOTOS
Photos must contain Surfer ID and photographer credit.
If photographer is unknown, type “photographer unknown”.
WAVE PHOTOS must include photographer credit.
 PLEASE CORRECT YOUR POST CAPTIONS TO INCLUDE PROPER CREDIT if an LS member identifies the photographer or provides corrected Surfer ID in the comments section of your post.
Please use an album for multiple photos.
All album photos must be surfing related.
 VIDEOS must include source of ID
Please post generic beach scenes elsewhere.
Please post skateboarding and car/motorcycle photos elsewhere
Respect the locals. --> Do not name secret spots or lesser known spots.
 POSTS
Please limit your posts to 8 or so in a 24 hour period.
Please refrain from sharing/recycling other members’ posts.
 SELLING / ADVERTISING
Limited exceptions only. Must be approved by Admin.
Environmental posts must be approved by Admin.
 KEEP IT PONO
No Politics.
Negative & derogatory comments will be deleted, and may result in removal from the group.
Let’s keep the Aloha Spirit by doing all of the above! 🤙
🌴🌊

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Tom Blake (1902-1994)

Aloha and Welcome. My Tom Blake chapter is one of the longest chapters in my collection and is based on the definitive Blake biography Tom Blake: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman, which I co-wrote with Blake biographer and friend Gary Lynch, published in 2001.


To read, please click on the image below:

Contents

Introduction
Blake Beginnings
Malibu First Ridden with Sam Reid, 1926
Hollow Board Evolution, 1926-29
  Drilled-Holes, 1926-29
  Pacific Coast Surfriding Championships, 1928
  Carved Chambered Hollows, 1929
Surf Photography, 1929
Ala Wai Canal Contests, 1929-1931
Further Board Developments
Surfer Lifestyle Pioneer
Longest Rides, 1930 & 1936
Early 1930s Innovations
  The Sailboard, 1931-32
  Collapsible Surfboard, 1932
  The Leash
Santa Monica Guarding, 1932-33
Catalina Crossing, 1932
Production Boards
USA East Coast
  Miami, 1933-34
  Nassau, Bahamas, 1934
  Long Island, New York, 1934
The Skeg & Other Innovations
Palos Verdes & Miami 1939-41
World War II and After
Early 1950s
Surfing’s End, 1955
1960s
  “Voice of the Wave,” 1968
1970s
Last Years


“When I was a young man, I fell from social grace, or rather was pushed into deep water. Thereafter I became a rebel of the society that had so taken advantage of a well meaning youth. I soon found that even deep water supports a rebel, if he has the will and ability to swim, regardless of race, color or creed. At times I found the water good, better than the land I was cut off from; the blessings of nature, superior and more honest and productive to happiness than the striving to conform: was thus I came to know my god.”

-- Tom Blake, July 16, 1968

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Great Women Surfers of the Wooden Era


Aloha and Welcome to this LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on the Great Women Surfers of The Wooden Era.

Originally written in the later part of the 1990's, this work was slightly edited in 2002 and part of the online collection for the following decade. After several years lapse, this chapter is once again posted for public viewing, reading and downloading.

Aloha,

Malcolm Gault-Williams
July 2019



Mary Ann Hawkins - photo by Doc Ball, 1939

Contents


Traditional Hawaiian Wave Sliders
Mamala
Chiefess Kaneamuna's Papa Holua & Papa Hee Nalu
Kamehameha’s Ka‘ahumanu
Princess Kaiulaini

Early 20th Century Waikiki Surf Riders
Josephine Pratt & Mildred Turner, Circa 1910
Dowsett Sisters & Leslie Lemon, Tandem Riders
Paddleboarders Newport, Hammond, Wehselau, Gillespie, Clark & Slaight, Circa 1915-30
Beatrice Newport, Cecily Cunha, Wehselau, Hammond, Gillespie, Frazier, Circa 1930

Australia’s Isabel Letham

Early California Women Surfers

Mary Ann Hawkins, March 7, 1919 – January 28, 1993

Post World War II Wave Warriors
Keanuinui Rochlen
Darrylin Zanuck Sparks A Flame
Aggie Bane Quigg
Vicki Flaxman
Claire Cassidy

The pre-Gidget Gidgets
Robin Grigg
Peter Lawford Group
Male Reception

Makaha Champions
Ethel Harrison Kukea
Marge Calhoun
Makaha Results, 1954-71

Kathy Kohner -- Gidget, the Girl Midget 27



              During most of the Twentieth Century, males came to dominate the world of surfing almost to the exclusion of women altogether. In recent times, this has been changing. Even so, few realize that surfing’s roots lay in a much more egalitarian surfing lifestyle in the Polynesia and Hawaii of old. This included equal participation by not only males and females, but children as well. In fact, when one looks at the entire history of surfing that we know of and can surmise, most of that time was spent with, yes, an admittedly male dominant role, but certainly not without the ever presence of kids and women. In that sense, the increasing modern day influence on surfing by female surfers can be seen more as a return to past balance, rather than just a new development.
              While our history rights its course, virtually lost to us is the memory of the many notable women surfers who rode the ocean’s waves up through the first half of the 1900's. Some of them, you will find here…

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Mike Doyle (1941-2019)

My chapter on Legendary Surfer Mike Doyle is now back in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection at:

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2019/05/mike-doyle-1941-2019.html


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Surfing Years 1952-1953


Surfing Years 1952-53

Aloha and Welcome to this chapter on the high points of surfing during 1952 and 1953. 
What this chapter contains:

1952

Santa Cruz
Beginning 1940s
December 7, 1941
Late 1940s
1950
Colisko Boski, 1951
The Rivermouth

Southern California Balsa
Phil Edwards Start-Up
Mickey Dora Beginnings
Buzzy Trent via Ricky Grigg
San O
Pete Peterson at Malibu
Makaha International Surfing Championships


1953

Greg & Beverly Noll
Tommy Zahn, Paddling Champ
Makaha & Coast Haoles
The 1st Commercial Surf Film
Phil Edwards Again
Bev Morgan Wetsuits
Mike Doyle vs. The 22nd Street Gang
The Surf Photo Seen ‘Round The World
Quonset Hut Riders

To read, please click on the newspaper image below. 
You will be redirected to the chapter:

Surfing Years 1952-1953

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Mo‘ikeha and Sons

As surfing emerged and developed in Western Polynesia between 1500 B.C. and 400 A.D.,1successive waves of Polynesian sailing expeditions explored and settled all of Polynesia.2 Double-hulled voyaging canoes covered thousands of miles of open ocean. They were guided only by celestial bodies, the flight of the golden plover3 and other birds, and sets of ocean swells as aids to primitive navigation – known today as “wayfinding.”

Legendary early-Twentieth Century surfer Tom Blake marveled: “No more daring and courageous sea journeys are to be found in history.”4 Indeed, by 800 A.D., the only other known significant seagoing explorations on the planet had been made by Phoenicians sailing the coast of Africa, Irish travelers reaching Iceland, and Vikings discovering the Faroe Islands between Norway and Iceland.5

After the major period of Polynesian expansion was over, there were later voyages consolidating the links between the islands. In this period of ali‘i voyaging, the most famous of the voyaging chiefs was Mo‘ikeha. He is the first surfer we know much about.

Mo‘ikeha's legend is not always easy to follow because of the numerous -- often conflicting -- versions of his exploits that have been recorded. But, back in the 1990s, I gave it a shot. Here it is as a free eBook, excellent for viewing on a mobile device, available for downloading and sharing as a pdf file:


Click on image above to download


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"Sandwich Island Girl" Updates

There is new, additional evidence that the "Sandwich Island Girl" may have existed and surfed Asbury Park, New Jersey, in the summer of 1888. Please visit the updated chapter, especially the later section with the updates from 2017 and 2018:

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-sandwich-island-girl-1888.html


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Nick Gabaldon (1927-1951)

I've wanted to write about Nick and add his story to the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection for a long time.

Over the decades since his death, there's been a good deal of folklore added to Nick's history as a surfer. Wanting to get it straight, myself, I've done my own research and this is the result. 

I hope Nick's story inspires you as it has many others.

Aloha,

-- Malcolm Gault-Williams, July 2018


To read, please visit:

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2018/07/nick-gabaldon-1927-1951.html


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Surfing Years 1950-51

Taken out of mothballs and dusted off a bit, I've reintroduced my chapter on surfing circa 1950-51 at:



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