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Surfing Years 1952-1953


Surfing Years 1952-53

Aloha and Welcome to this chapter on the high points of surfing during 1952 and 1953. 
What this chapter contains:

1952

Santa Cruz
Beginning 1940s
December 7, 1941
Late 1940s
1950
Colisko Boski, 1951
The Rivermouth

Southern California Balsa
Phil Edwards Start-Up
Mickey Dora Beginnings
Buzzy Trent via Ricky Grigg
San O
Pete Peterson at Malibu
Makaha International Surfing Championships


1953

Greg & Beverly Noll
Tommy Zahn, Paddling Champ
Makaha & Coast Haoles
The 1st Commercial Surf Film
Phil Edwards Again
Bev Morgan Wetsuits
Mike Doyle vs. The 22nd Street Gang
The Surf Photo Seen ‘Round The World
Quonset Hut Riders

To read, please click on the newspaper image below. 
You will be redirected to the chapter:

Surfing Years 1952-1953

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Mo‘ikeha and Sons

As surfing emerged and developed in Western Polynesia between 1500 B.C. and 400 A.D.,1successive waves of Polynesian sailing expeditions explored and settled all of Polynesia.2 Double-hulled voyaging canoes covered thousands of miles of open ocean. They were guided only by celestial bodies, the flight of the golden plover3 and other birds, and sets of ocean swells as aids to primitive navigation – known today as “wayfinding.”

Legendary early-Twentieth Century surfer Tom Blake marveled: “No more daring and courageous sea journeys are to be found in history.”4 Indeed, by 800 A.D., the only other known significant seagoing explorations on the planet had been made by Phoenicians sailing the coast of Africa, Irish travelers reaching Iceland, and Vikings discovering the Faroe Islands between Norway and Iceland.5

After the major period of Polynesian expansion was over, there were later voyages consolidating the links between the islands. In this period of ali‘i voyaging, the most famous of the voyaging chiefs was Mo‘ikeha. He is the first surfer we know much about.

Mo‘ikeha's legend is not always easy to follow because of the numerous -- often conflicting -- versions of his exploits that have been recorded. But, back in the 1990s, I gave it a shot. Here it is as a free eBook, excellent for viewing on a mobile device, available for downloading and sharing as a pdf file:


Click on image above to download


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"Sandwich Island Girl" Updates

There is new, additional evidence that the "Sandwich Island Girl" may have existed and surfed Asbury Park, New Jersey, in the summer of 1888. Please visit the updated chapter, especially the later section with the updates from 2017 and 2018:

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2017/03/the-sandwich-island-girl-1888.html


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Nick Gabaldon (1927-1951)

I've wanted to write about Nick and add his story to the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection for a long time.

Over the decades since his death, there's been a good deal of folklore added to Nick's history as a surfer. Wanting to get it straight, myself, I've done my own research and this is the result. 

I hope Nick's story inspires you as it has many others.

Aloha,

-- Malcolm Gault-Williams, July 2018


To read, please visit:

https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2018/07/nick-gabaldon-1927-1951.html


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Surfing Years 1950-51

Taken out of mothballs and dusted off a bit, I've reintroduced my chapter on surfing circa 1950-51 at:



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SHACC New Website

Welcome to the new SHACC website!

Please continue to enjoy the writings on surfing's history and culture at LEGENDARY SURFERS - one of many services brought to you by the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center (SHACC).

Due to the transition from the old SHACC website to the new one, quite a number of chapters in the LEGENDARY SURFERS Collection are missing -- especially from 1950 onwards. Please bear with us. They will return.


-- Malcolm Gault-Williams, surf writer for over 25 years


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Shared History - Oct 2017

With this post, I am beginning a new series here at LEGENDARY SURFERS I call "Shared History." The title has a dual meaning: surf history that is shared and surf history that we have been a part of.

This history is not particular to the month that it is listed (in this case, "October 2017"). It's just that the material concerning the surfing history or item of surfing cultural significance reached my desk on that month and that is the month I've collected a group of the best. Material ranges from the earliest recorded writings about surfing to the latest video, just released. As a writer of surfing's history and culture for over 25 years, this is information I feel is important for readers and viewers who are most interested in our history as surfers and the culture we share.

This first group consists of links I've collected during the month of October 2017 (LEGENDARY SURFERS Newsletter #99). Each month I will pass along a new list for you to check out. Aloha!



Mike Bright - Melbourne, Australia. Photo courtesy of the Bright Family.

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Bruce Brown Has Passed

Bruce Brown (1937-2017) has passed on while in his sleep at home. Many memories, videos, pictures and expressions of gratitude for the film treasure chest Bruce has left us... are being shared at the LEGENDARY SURFERS Facebook Group at: https://www.facebook.com/groups/99148475798/


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Doug Fiske and Early SURFING Magazine

Doug Fiske has written about his life as a surfer, photographer, editor and art director at SURFING Magazine, 1960s into the 1970s. A very personal retrospective, he's posted "The Blink of an I" online, along with a ton of graphics.


Doug's been gracious enough to let me include his memories in the  LEGENDARY SURFERS  collection. Please visit:

" The Blink of an I " by Doug Fiske




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Surfing Timeline

SurferToday has put together "The most important dates in the history of surfing" and it is located on their website at: https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/10553-the-most-important-dates-in-the-history-of-surfing - The list is a bit sketchy after the 1980s, but gives a good overview of major events and significant developments in recorded surf history: 

3000-1000 BCE: Peruvian fishermen build and ride "caballitos de totora" to transport their nets and collect fish;
900 BCE: Ancient Polynesians ride "olo" boards as a traditional, religious art form;
1769: Botanist Joseph Banks writes first description of wave riding at Matavai Bay, Tahiti;
1778: Captain James Cook touches the Hawaiian Islands;
1866: Mark Twain tries surfing in Hawaii;
1885: Three Hawaiian princes surf for the first time in the USA, at the San Lorenzo river mouth, in Santa Cruz;
1898: Hawaii is annexed by the USA;
1906: Thomas Edison films surfers for the first time, at Waikiki, Hawaii;
1907: Jack London visits Hawaii and tries surfing at Waikiki, Hawaii;
1907: George Freeth is publicly announced as the "Hawaiian wonder" who could "walk on water", at Redondo Beach;
1907: Surf Life Saving Association is founded in Australia;
1908: Alexander Hume Ford founds the Outrigger Canoe and Surfboard Club;
1911: Duke Kahanamoku, Knute Cottrell and Ken Winter found Hui Nalu;
1914: Duke Kahanamoku introduces surfing to Australia, at Freshwater Beach;
1920: Duke Kahanamoku wins two gold medals for the USA at the Olympic Games, in Antwerp;
1920Edward, Prince of Wales, is photographed surfing in Hawaii;
1922Agatha Christie, the crime novelist, learns how to surf in South Africa;
1926: Tom Blake and Sam Reid surf Malibu for the first time;
1926: The first waves ridden in Europe are filmed in Leca da Palmeira, Portugal;
1928: Tom Blake organizes the first Pacific Coast Surfriding Championship, at Corona del Mar;
1929Lewis Rosenberg rides the first waves in the UK;
1929: The world's first artificial wave pool is built in Munich, Germany;
1930: Tom Blake build the first waterproof surf camera housing;
1930: The "Swastika" is the world's first mass-produced surfboard;
1933: San Onofre is surfed for the first time;
1935: Alfred Gallant Jr. applies floor wax to his surfboard;
1935: Tom Blake writes "Hawaiian Surfboard", surfing's first full-length surf book;
1935: Tom Blake introduces the first stabilizing fin on a surfboard;
1935: John "Doc" Ball founds the Palos Verdes Surf Club in California;
1935: Tom Blake writes an article on how to build a surfboard in "Popular Mechanics" magazine;
1940: Gene "Tarzan" Smith paddles a 14-foot board from Oahu to Kauai, in Hawaii;
1943: Hawaiian big wave pioneer Dickie Cross dies at Sunset Beach, in Hawaii;
1944: John Crowell, Charles Bates and Harold Cauthery work on surf forecasting for the Allied Invasion of Normandy;
1943: Tom Blake adds a twin fin system to a hollow timber board;
1945: Frank Adler founds the Australian Surf Board Association;
1948: John Lind founds the Waikiki Surf Club;
1951: Hugh Bradner, a MIT physicist, produces the world's first neoprene wetsuit;
1952: Jack O'Neill opens his "Surf Shop" in San Francisco;
1954: Hobie Alter opens his surfboard factory at Dana Point;
1954: Wally Froiseth organizes the Makaha International Surfing Championships;
1956: First waves ridden in France, at Biarritz;
1956: Dave Sweet shapes the world's first polyurethane foam surfboard;
1957: Mike Stange, Greg Noll, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz and Harry Schurch ride Waimea Bay for the first time;
1957: Hollywood surf movie "Gidget" is released;
1958: Marge Calhoun becomes the world's first female surfing champion after winning the Makaha International;
1959: John Severson founds "The Surfer", the world's first surfing magazine;
1961Philip Edwards rides Banzai Pipeline, in Hawaii, for the first time;
1961: Dick Dale pioneers the surf music genre;
1962: The Beach Boys release "Surfin' Safari";
1962: Bob Evans founds "Surfing World", Australia's first surf magazine;
1964: The World Surfing Championships hit Manly Beach, in Australia;
1964: Eduardo Arena is elected the first president of the International Surfing Federation (ISF);
1964: John Kelly founds Save Our Surf;
1966: Bruce Brown releases "The Endless Summer", the world's first surf movie;
1967: Alex Matienzo, Jim Thompson, and Dick Knottmeyer surf Mavericks for the first time;
1969: Greg Noll rides one of the biggest waves of all time at Makaha, Hawaii;
1969: Steve Russ, a kneeboarder, invents the surf leash in Santa Cruz, California;
1969: Doug Warbrick and Brian Singer found Rip Curl in Torquay, Australia;
1969: Alan Green and John Law found Quiksilver in Torquay, Australia;
1970: O'Neill markets the one-piece fullsuit;
1971: Tom Morey invents the bodyboard;
1971: Jeff Hakman wins the first edition of the Pipeline Masters;
1972: Kelly Slater, the most successful competitive surfer of all time, is born in Cocoa Beach, Florida;
1973: Ian Cairns wins the first world surfing title, at the Smirnoff World Pro-Am Championships;
1973: Gordon and Rena Merchant found Billabong in the Gold Coast, Australia;
1978: Hawaiian lifeguard, surfer and waterman Eddie Aikau, 31, is lost at sea, south of Molokai, never to be found;
1979: Michel Barland designs the world's first commercial computerized shaping machine;
1979: Lacanau Pro, the first ever surfing competition held in Europe, debuts in the southwest of France;
1980: Simon Anderson creates the "Thruster" surfboard fin system;
1982: Ian Cairns founds the Association of Surfing Professionals;
1983: Michael Ho wins the first edition of the Triple Crown of Surfing;
1984: Glen Hening and Tom Pratte found the Surfrider Foundation;
1984: Tom Carrol and Kim Mearig win the first ever ASP World Tour;
1986: Mike Stewart and Ben Severson surf Teahupoo, in Tahiti, for the first time;
1986: Herbie Fletcher tows Tom Carroll, Martin Potter and Gary Elkerton into 10-foot waves at Pipeline, Hawaii;
1987: "California Games" is the world's first video game featuring surfing;
1992: Kelly Slater wins his first ASP World Tour title;
1995: The Olympic Movement recognizes the International Surfing Association as the world's governing body for surfing;
2000: Laird Hamilton rides the Millennium Wave at Teahupoo, Tahiti;
2005: Clark Foam, producer of 60% of the world's surfboard blanks, shuts down;
2011: Garrett McNamara rides the biggest wave of all time, in Nazaré, Portugal;
2014Gabriel Medina is the first ever Brazilian to win a world surfing title;
2016: The International Olympic Committee (IOC) votes unanimously for the inclusion of surfing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games;

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