Wednesday, September 06, 2023

New and Edited Chapters

New and edited older chapters of the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection continue to be posted, although not in the volume of days gone by. The best menu to view these and the full collection is located at:

Thursday, March 23, 2023

LS Chapters Added 2nd Half 2022

In the second half of 2022, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added or re-issued include:


Austronesian Voyages:

The Long Voyages:

Peter Cole (1930-2022):

He'e Nalu:

Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culture:

Traditional Hawaiian Spots and Breaks:

Kapu and Classes:

Traditional Hawaiian Life:

Wahines and Surf Speak:

Doc, Anr (1944-2003):



Old Hawaiian Surfing Legends:

Earliest Peruvian Surfing:

Friday, January 01, 2021

LS Chapters Added Later in 2020

In the last half of 2020, LEGENDARY SURFERS chapters that were added, edited or offered free include:

Surfing Year 1956:

Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz (1921-2014):

Surfing Year 1958:

From Wood to Foam:

The Malibu Board:

Surfing Year 1959:

Phil Edwards: The Early Years:

Surfing Decade: The 1910's:

Surfing Year 1960:

Surfing Decade: The 1920's:

Gene "Tarzan" Smith (1911-1986):

Surfing Year 1961:

Saturday, December 14, 2019

Buzzy Trent (1929-2006)

Aloha and welcome to this chapter of Legendary Surfers on legendary surfer Buzzy Trent.

Buzzy Trent; photo by Leroy Grannis 


WW II Malibu & Post Era Surfing with Simmons
To & Fro the Beach
Tijuana Sloughs, Christmas Time, December 1949
Sunset Cliffs, January 1951
Before The Call of The Islands
Makaha, 1952
Makaha, 1953
Bob Simmons on The North Shore
The Photo Seen ‘Round The World
Talk Story
Makaha & The North Shore, 1954
Quonset Hut Life
Greg Noll & The Hermosa Guys, 1954
Phil Edwards on The North Shore, 1955
All Out Attack on The North Shore, 1955
Laniakea, November 1955
Outside Reefs
Coast Haoles Takeover The North Shore
Waimea Broke Open, November 1957
Later Years

“You don’t go hunting elephant with a BB gun. If you’re going to hunt big waves, take a big gun.” 1

“Life’s a supermarket, Kurnz. Put anything you want in the shopping cart, but you have to deal with the checker on the way out the door.” 2

Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Surfing Year 1954

Aloha and welcome to the LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on surfing as it was in 1954.

Disclaimer: I've tried my best to pin-point surfing events and stories that took place in 1954, but realize there may be some inconsistencies in the chronology.

Rick, Mike, Sonny and Bing. Photo by Velzy.


George Downing
Phil Edwards
Mike Doyle
Miki and Mickey
The Death of Simmons
Greg Noll Hits the North Shore
Makaha Quonset Huts
Haole in Waipahu High
Pau Malu = Sunset Beach
Henry “Hanalei” Preece
The Hike Around Kaena Point
Makaha International Surfing Championships
Last Days of the Hot Curl

To read the chapter on 1954, please go here: